If you try to weld metal that is too thick compared to the parent metal you run the risk of blowing through the parent metal to the get amps needed to blend the two different thicknesses... It can be done if you've got experience but if you...

If your new to welding, don't let your 38' be your first job!! 🫣... Doing it with an arc welder is a different thing. Better with a small decent mig welder, more control for me.. Either way make sure the battery is disconnected so no risk of any...

Doubt it’s that thick. Make it bigger & use a vernier ?? TBH I agree with clean ing rust & use fibreglass & filler.

There seems to be a piece of metal behind that hole that's now loose and when I went under the car it looks like it sits between the exhaust t piece and the boot floor. Possible heat shield? Idk. If I was to go down the welder route , do you...

Sorry I do not know the thickness of the metal. I use the sides off old washing machines for body repairs. How about a bolt and big washer?

The first one looks like a deliberately drilled hole? If you use an arc welder, disconnect the battery negative or you may destroy the electronics. Personally, I would treat with Phosphoric acid to kill the rust and then repair with fibre...

🫣🤣

The 38' is👌😜👍

i think the RR sport is a better option or the new defender 90 or 110

When I did my P38 I dropped it 🫣 Had to meticulously clean it all up from carpet lint re grease and reassemble, while bubbling with rage, but wasn’t tight nevertheless, could all be pushed home with a firm clamp.

When I did my P38 propshafts, the bearing caps were slightly below the circlips. I centred the UJ as best I could, and then filled with grease which expanded the caps firmly against the circlips. Does sound like dropped roller, unless the UJ's...

I know this is an old thread, but if someone is here because they are having a similar issue, then it might be due to the thickness of the circlips. I recently purchased new GKN UJ bearings for my 1977 S3 and, upon opening the boxes, noticed...

The injectors should be tightened to 65 ft lb or 48 nm

NBG... No bloody good🫣 The leak off pipes are 3.2mm interior? 🤔 You can't rule out a crack but replacing the head without double checking is a real expensive job...

You can get a special injector spanner, a box spanner may not pass the leak off spigots, not sure about that.

Several of us have had the same and found that by tightening up of the injector has cured the problem

I doubt it's a cracked head, that is not where they crack. Most likely the replacement leak of pipe is NBG or the pipe union is not tight. If the there are bubbles, the injector may not be tight. or the copper washer was not replaced.

WHen im in the UK istay near littlehampton and the goodwood airfield is near and often there is a spitfire flying over and if you have got a spare bit of cash you can fly one...

And that's the other thing I've noticed.. the go pedal isn't a throttle like in the old days, its an interface which tells the ecu how much power you want. The car decides how much and how quickly to increase the fuel injection rate and if/when...

Range Overs, Over sized, Over powered and Over complicated. Not for me thanks.

As my brain doesn't ingest info as readily as it used to I only study things I need to know about. So having done my 5 minutes on google I concur with your explanation.

every time I look out of the window and see my old L322 parked on my neighbors drive opposite I wonder if I've done the right thing getting the L405 and then I put my foot down 🤣, and the comfort. I thought the L322 was good but even the missus...

Yes. I've watched mine a lot recently. It adjusts alternator load dependant on requested power. Eg if you're accelerating, it might drop to 12.0v whereas if you're decelerating at 2000rpm, it will start charging at 13.6 or even go up to 14.7...

Took my 4.2 sc on a 6 hour round round trip from Rochdale to Duxford air museum Cambs, drove great there and back, even kept the mother in law happy! Took about £95 fuel with average of around 24-26mpg. Also for anyone not been Duxford is...

They are massive that's for sure🤯

When I did mine, it oil was sucked out with the engine not running as to not run the risk of cycling the steering pump while dry. I think this is what our mate Keith is saying. You can do either way that suits, I.E. A full dismount. I chose...

From what I can deduce, the smaller port on the base of the reservoir is the return line.

Cheers. It's not a electronic pump it's just a manual one. Could that do damage/how would it damage it? Would I have to jack the front tyres up off the ground or is there another way like putting cardboard under the wheels?

I was going to pump out the old oil in the reservoir remove the return line (blocking off the return nozzle on the reservoir) then refill the reservoir with clean fluid & vacuum pump the old stuff through the system while drawing the fresh fluid...

Careful with the vacuum pump, it may do damage. I do not remember which is the return pipe so it's trial and error. Better put the return into a bucket and let the pump do the pumping IMO.