They are normal tyre valves, put a portable air compressor on and up you go. J

That will do the job slowly

If the pump is not refurbished yet, just put the valves on the four airlines that go to the airbags. Tyre pump might do it, but most are only good for 35-40psi. The airbags need about 50-60psi for standard height. Once the airbags & pump are...

All's I have is a electric car tire pump 😂 either that or no car

Hard work with a manual pump but possible, it's the 4 pipes at the side of the valve block

Maybe because the P38 is not a Classic?

Classic Range Rover? The P38 is not the Classic and the EAS is not the same.

Are you slim enough to stand on the edge? :p. J

I am👌😜

There is the one at the bottom of the bell housing..🤔

worth asking Enners about. Loves his gearbox maintenance. There’s a thread somewhere we all used to post pics of the oil that came out to compare. @HenryB

There might be an access hole somewhere so you can poke an endoscope in to see the flex plate?

No way that I know of. @HenryB recommends tightening the valve block bolts, that cured flaring on mine. However if it shifts well, I cannot see it being low oil pressure. Are you sure it's the gearbox and not the transfer box?

Is there any way to diagnose this problem further without taking the gearbox apart? It sounds likely from what the LR specialist said that the oil pressure could be low, is there any way to test whether it is?

Never seen anything on my two. A cracked flex plate may also cause your symptoms.

Is it really that bad? I thought a bit of powder was normal, iirc the filter is magnetic and gathers the shavings. I assume it's from all the grinding, but other than the jolting and grinding it's working quite fine and doesn't really act up.

We fill it on even ground with the engine running at cold start.

Fixed slooby's old Rangie. Running nicely. Leak off on #2 and #3 were leaking everywhere, of course. Quick fix with sone spare pipe I had ready. Now what the hell do I do with it? MoT test, maybe?

She's shy 🤣

You are🤪😘

My gearbox did not have a hard time, it had about three days of missing gear changes on a 10 minute drive, and then I stopped driving it, found the leak, fixed it and filled it up again.

I was not offended by it. But have a look at the second comment. Then the third comment, the fourth comment, the fifth comment, the six comment etc. But if you want to call it banter then everything that I have said back to you guys is just...

And for the 3rd time I will find this out with my OBD reader so I'm not worried.

I'm not driving it there to scrap it on this trip, instead I need it to make it all the way there and back without any problems. I have stated repeatedly that this will be a return trip. It may be another few years before I leave England and at...

Speaking from very recent experience, if an suto box runs for any petiod of time with less than the normal amount of fluid in it, it will soon be curtains for the box. And mine had less of a hard time than the OP's one did.

Phil is the guru on these boxes. Whatever he says.

I mentioned oil pressure and water pump for cooling. I don't know if it will be an issue but it is something I would keep an eye on in case it becomes an issue. I'm not a motor engineer, I am a tinkerer and I am well aware that these things are...

If you just going to scarp it why all the bother? Just thrash it down the road at 1500rpm instead of 1200rpm and be done with it.

If your diffs new diffs fit physically. Your torque converter will spend more time out off lockup. That will result in more heat in your atf fluid so a slight decrease in atf fluid lifetime. Then higher cylinder pressures. It will take x amount...