The matrix has permannent coolant flow and the heating/cooling is managed by the servomotors which are opening/closing the flaps, when cooling is set the flaps for the heater core are supposed to be closed and all the air should go through the...

Honestly I’d be curious how the heck your going to get a body with all interior still there for not stupidly expensive money considering breakers can strip almost everything out to sell it…? I’d start with actually sourcing that, no point on the...

A proper fix, replace entire loom or email a breaker to get the plug with some tail of wire and solder it back on. Failing those, zip ties? lol

Had this issue too, you’ll just have to pattern it the best you can and make a repair panel/patch to weld in. I’d get used to this cause if there ain’t an easy panel for it then it’s a diy job.

If the sale of the car explicitly didn’t include the private plate and is written on the receipt as such then can’t you just apply by post as you don’t have the V5C and have it removed as you own it? obviously the current owner will be unaware...

With “it’s 24yr old technology” its pretty safe at the vehicle has to be opened and various bits of wiring has to be reconfigured while the alarm is sounding. You can go back 50years and stick a locking steel bar on the steering, which owners of...

Even the real owners have problems getting in and starting sometimes :p. I would say its pretty safe as standard. J

Sierrafery is on the money, as long as your immobiliser works, it ain’t getting stolen without a stupid amount of research, work and testing. You can’t even talk to the BCU with the immobiliser enabled, it may be old but it works as it should and...

Which is safer than any of the newer CAN-bus technilogy these days which are easyer to be acessed by ”specialists” with proper scanners who dont even know how these old security systems were conceived. There is almost zero possibility for an...

Very clever thread title!!! There was me hoping to read some tips!!!!

I actually wondered what that was, so thanks for clarifying. I vote even more for it to be kept now!

Already fitted by the look of photo 1

Joint universel, qui permet Les Deux parties de l'arbre de transmission de continuer a fonctinner quand une partie change son angle envers l'autre.

First of all, a huge thank you to everyone for your help. I'm extremely touched !☺️ As for my place of residence... I juggle between Versailles ( 78 ) and Verneuil-sur-Avre ( 27 ). So I slipped under my D2 and there's indeed a little play in...

Take all the financials out of it because what ever you put in you most likely wont get back ever, even if they do appreciate, so do you love it and want to keep it forever? If so, keep it, do what’s required and never get rid of it. Not sure if...

Thinking of a using a local garage to do it, will ask when we next go to look at new home

I suppose it is because the exhaust gases squeezing through the narrow gap between where it has warped and the head make the noise. If you are worried about this, look at it and you should be able to see soot marks where it is happening. Sadly...

Without wishing to teach Granny to suck eggs, when I thought mine was doing that it turned out to be a warped exhaust manifold. Just saying, like. !

+1^ to all of the above. I too had to do it. IF you can get it off intact, i.e bolt/stud holes, threads etc , then do take it off skim it and cut all the webbing away. I had to use left hand drill bits etc etc, and still ended up having to do...

Exactly

All of which have potential to go wrong, unfortunately. It's a job I would try and avoid if possible, ok you're not going to do it for the sake of it but you know what I mean.

Yep and when it does go wrong, you can very easily fk the ally bolt holes and completely screw your head. I almost did…

FYI for anyone not done it and curious, if bolt snaps in head and you can’t get molegrips on it to twist it. Your choices are, stud/bolt extractor set, drill a pilot hole in the bolt and use the extractor head which should hopefully unscrew the...

It's an easy job if the studs don't snap or damage the threads in the head.

Probably just skimmed and dewebbed, unless you got the cash to get something custom and I’ve only seen like 1 custom and was for a v8 though. You could get one on ebay for £300 and was an exchange arrangement. I did it a year ago and it was 190...

I see a more d2's around, than D1's, most are on large wheels and have had the exhaust played with. Still see lots of 3's on the road.

you’re after the top one, connects to main fuel line to FPR, use that to gauge the connector location.

Can’t find a video but green goes to the FPR in the engine bay, the pipe connects from fuel pump to the main length of fuel line that runs along the chassis, connector is on top of chassis between fuel filter and body mount if I remember...

Had a quarter chassis this year, welding in one wheel arch. New exhaust system. Solid. Just need an exhaust manifold now.

I am still surprised at the number of D1 s I see over here. D2s are much rarer. But then it is warm and dry a lot of the time and any car over 20 years old doesn't have to pass their MOT!