I didn't have any of the right gaskets or O rings for both the oil filters so I've had to order those. The main cooler gasket was leaking from both of the lower oilways. This where I am currently.

I would be upset if water was getting into the gearbox and would quickly find out how, as that would mean oil would be leaking out ☹️

With multimeter is shows 12.4V when engine off, nanocom shows 12.07V. Yeah, I need manual ECU, now I don’t have cruise control, clutch switch isn’t plugged in. I’ve read that TD5insied can convert auto ecu to manual but am not sure that true...

I’ve queried this elsewhere and was confirmed to me that it is the wading plug hole for the bell housing, engine doesn’t have one as isn’t needed but bell housing does and its random from what I’ve seen if you have one fitted still or not. I...

That will never work well unless you are very skilled with electronics and work on the PCB to insert the clutch switch's input circuit which is missing in the auto EU also you have to remap it for manual, simply changing settings with nanocom is...

So little update it was a combination of a worn ignition barrel (that already had been replaced), terrible connection on the common 12v input (brown wire in center) and the ignition switch internals being fully worn out and corroded. So changed...

Also when you get it running on brake cleaner, does it die after you’ve stopping providing it or does it start with the brake cleaner and run as normal off the fuel in the tank?

might be a daft question, but you have enough fuel right? Mine wouldn’t start when very low on fuel, just as the light turns on but I chucked 10 litre in and bled it then it started first crank.

Does anybody know how to take the entire dashboard off? I’ve not had much looking finding the info and need it off. I’ve got the instrument cluster off and the plug at the top was melted a small amount but the wiring is fine. All the side buttons...

Still on Auto ECU, just change settings in Nanocom from auto to manual but that’s in BCU as far as I know. Okay I will record it next time I drive. Thanks a lot. Okay will check it, thanks a lot. Okay first I will check via Nanocom voltages...

Use your nanocom to watch the voltages of the brake pedal when pressing it/driving, if your foot is constant and the voltage is sporadic and the symptoms happen then it’s the brake pedal.

I've just found out it's for the air conditioning, but I don't have it anymore so it's redundant!

Hi guys. I've just got the 2002 Disco 2 TD5 body back on the chassis after months of welding the chassis and replacing parts in my spare time. At the front of the body coming from behind the OS headlight there is a wiring harness that I've...

You will regret only doing a section, cut it all off & do it properly. There is more prep than welding.

Just a heads up guys so you don’t get a nasty surprise but if your sills are rotted, check the centre/rear body mount just before the body arches up to the rear seats, if that’s rotted then you’ll most likely have to replace the corner of the...

Fair enough. When I did our 300tdi with box, I didn't find it that bad, I started the arc on the heavy box, and worked the puddle up to dissolve the body's thin metal with the molten metal from the weld pool. So I wasn't playing the arc onto the...

Well that's what I did with my 3 door but it turned into an absolute nightmare trying to weld thin stuff onto the heavy box section. Also this vehicle spends 90% of its life on tarmac so no real need for jacking off the sills.

Honestly I don’t think it’s done anything to the chassis heat wise as all copper cables are intact, even the abs sensor cable at the site of the fire start, the aluminium rear quarters are melted but that’s only 650c, if copper cables are all...

I’ve had a look at the chassis cause been doing a bit of sweeping of glass etc. The rear is/will be fbar’d, all the coating has burned off from where the floor arches up for rear seats, body undercoating from there backwards is also burnt away...

That is a really horrible thing to see😥. Yes you were lucky more damage wasnt done, and is a warning to others. So when the dust settles you can think clearly. So you could claim on insurance and just forget it, start again another day. All the...

I've had another look at the pics and agree it doesn't actually look disastrously bad. electrical bits under the dash seem to have only had smoke on them, which shouldn't hurt, much! There is a company that offers kits you can convert a Disco...

I think you should buy a couple of these ... https://www.budget-fire.co.uk/product/5kg-co2-fire-extinguisher https://www.screwfix.com/c/safety-workwear/fire-extinguishers/cat850454?fireextinguishertype=co2 Or if (like me), there is no...

I've bought several write offs back from the insurers. They ask scrap value which is naff all. I then repaired them and ran them until it wasn't worth it. Scrap value on yours would be pretty well nix as they would have to pay a scrap yard to...

Yea I’ve decided I’m probably just going to remove anything on value off the body that is salvageable, get rid of the body check over the chassis backend that the fire was at and rear axle. If all seems ok then I’ll just wheel the chassis, engine...

Jeepers that's bad, devastating. Nothing to say that could make you feel any better. Gutted for you.

Sorry for your loss, but you're lucky it didn't spread to the house. I think buy back from the insurance, won't be much, when they see what's left. Fingers crossed, you find another one soon.

Honestly I don’t know, I’d had thought you’d pay back what they paid you for the write off so you’d be at net zero. Not sure as first write off tbh. I don’t want to test it then find out I can’t buy it back and i’m a lot worse off. No the...

Helluva loss but at least you and any of your family weren’t hurt. That would have been a disaster. Hope you get sorted out there.

Cheers, I’ll be better when I’m sat in a working disco 2 TD5 LOL! Yea I’m good and the family, only was car and garage stuff so very lucky really. I do have contents insurance for the house so I’m thinking they will cover the stuff lost but...

It is fully insured, comp too but the cash value they’ll pay is around 2.2k and I obviously can’t strip a lot of anything off that has had all the new parts, front axle for example. That’s if they’ll actually cover it and not put it under...