I drain the oil from the TD5 and use it in the tdi, never had a problem.

My 200 is lard in summer and cooking oil in winter. It’s easier to start in the colder months. 😂

You know I was thinking that too, whilst reading your comments ...

Nothing like a good debate....

"This would be back in the early 90s, back then no normal person said lol, not ever." What does the last part mean? and too your last post, whats your issue, calling me "lol boy", I got no problem with you or what you have been sharing. It is a...

From my initial post I simply said upgrade to a full synthetic as a full synthetic is a better quality of oil then mineral or semi synthetic and provided proof from a reputable company of this to support my claim. Clearly this is a emotional...

I would agree that a 2/300tdi doesn’t need synthetic just from personal expiriance. I got 380k miles out of my last 200tdi which was still going strong and only removed because I had an engine fire, not because anything was wrong with the engine.

It’s a fully mechanical 200tdi from the early 90’s. It predated cats and emissions etc. so don’t have that to worry about. I doubt it has changed since release.

Okay okay what are you claiming with the way I spell? 🤣 get with the times. You’re still using mineral oil, upgrade to full synthetic. I went from “far out” to “lol”

Yes, again, you get less friction with a fully synthetic as mentioned before because the molecules within the oil are uniformed, but circuit flow, as shown, less varnish and probably sludge buildup, and they contain less impurities than...

Interesting, but how did the engines fail because of synthetic oil? So your claiming the oil didn’t lubricate properly therefore there was a malfunction somewhere possible the piston rings which resulted in oil getting into the combustion...

How is it a waste of money 🤪, I just provided a video from valvoline the first oil company ever that proves fully synthetic is better for your truck than conventional having 7 cold rings and synthetic having 1 + far less varnish meaning the...

yes my wording sounds off lol yes they lock the front and rear output shaft together

I would recommend a full synthetic for any vehicle. Why the hell would you put anything but full synthetic in 2025, "Especially one where the oil is changed 3 or 4 times a year" this line would make me believe for you that frequency plays a...

his name was sarcasm 🤦‍♂️

That’s a keeper.

yes this can be gravity bled as mentioned above. max 10 min job. 11mm spanner is all you will need.

grade is dependent on temperature x what the manual saids, will be different for all. Castrol is LR official supplier. I use fully synthetic 5w40 for my td5. I think you should upgrade to a full synthetic and stick with Castrol. I would also...

someone said at the depot shop, "the longer the bolt, the longer it lasts" still 8.8 grade bolts so whatevaaaaa also the nut is not that chunky

and while you're under there, grease your ujs. Look pretty dry

The transfer box + gbox sits right under the front passenger seat, could be either or. I just checked their website and as presumed their transfer case comes with no oil. You mentioned last week it was installed but then said to my question a...

Sorry just realized it is the front, but the test still stands, it doesn't happen in the rear? strange it is the front unless you are always driving in difflock. You grinding may be in the rear as this would make more sense. Did you do anything...

Sounds like the rear output shaft and the flange that joins the propshaft to the lt230. There are splines that join the shaft to the flange that can/will fail over time. Ashcroft makes a much stronger shaft. Most likely if you put it in difflock...

The most important areas are the ones you cant see. Check every bracket. I just finished replacing old fasteners around the front and mid section and a few in the rear. Have some rust corrosion inhibitor, copper grease and just peel away at...

I have there clutch pedal spring in, really nice affordable upgrade + with the slick shift. Actually I shift so quickly I am still learning to wait for the rpms to drop before I can release the clutch and add throttle. I also have there brake...

Yes, it could be an injector that's occasionally sticking. After that many kilometres of rattling up and down forty or fifty times a second it's surprising that they work at all. Well, I suppose they're not made by Land Rover, so that might...

They obviously have a good reputation in your mind. 👍 Let us know how you get on ...

I'm happy with the single mass and believe that my problems lie somewhere else. Since it is only in low/mid-range and not constant.

your spot on, new OEM injector harness, and use MAF Cleaner for the red plug.

Hi that is a side step support bar.