Can we ignore for a few years for it to be resurrected with "I have the same problem" or "what was the solution"

While a joint is ok, I'm not sure a reputable garage would use one. By the time the joint was made a complete pipe could be installed. A pain on axle stands to get in but probably easier on a ramp.

With everyone ignoring it this is the thread to finally come out of the closet to.

Depending on level of security a money tin might be ok. Leaving out of sight isn't always best as anyone who has access to the car,eg mechanics, may find it and you possibly wouldnt know straight away.

Something like a gun box would work. Possibly an ammo box would be smaller

There is the option for a second lighter for the rear passenger, the cable could be there under the cubby box. You can then easily fish cable where you want it, even inside the cubby box.

OK. Might have been worth mentioning your location for best results !!

Any newer diesel the dpf would be a consideration, do you drive enough to keep it clean and I would factor in replacement cost.

VCU is a good first check. Although a cheaper check though harder check, I would prefer to do is the auto-adjuster on the drums at the back. the spring that holds them in the right place and allows them to work without adjusting to the max each...

Thank you. Have since removed the master from the car and "un-built" it 😅 Following removal it looks like the seal for the fill under the actual container was very cracked leaking and just falling to bits, some other seals were good and others...

Ever since I got my 2003 TD4 Sport, the turbo lets out a growl or a rasping noise when it is working, say when the car changes down on a hill and the turbo comes in again. At 53k miles, I didn't think it was a turbo bearing, now at 68k it has...

Could be engine mounts.

K series, first thing to check is the compression to rule out head gasket failure.

Didn't know that. I know some cars do both from one set of pads.

Obviously not touching enough, is there a handbrake adjuster?

Looks like there's a head band to stop it rubbing on the pipes!

Check main ground from battery to chassis for good contact and ensure the crimp lug has no corrosion ,check ground strap from engine to chassis and gearbox to chassis and all subsequent earth points and ensure you have your DVM on dc voltage

Have you confirmed the battery is charging. Could be a bad earth, when it gives the fault test battery voltage plus to minus and also plus to earthed points, ie the engine. Should all be similar readings.

Changed the colour of my wheels back in 2017 from standard silver to bronze metallic 1 2 3

Do the sensors plug in independently to the module? If so does the issue follow the sensor or where they are plugged into. Try just one sensor at a time. Maybe a damaged cable that's picking up interference, you could try oscilloscope on the sensors

Top up using syringe, chemist can supply them for kids medicine. Try bleading it

So you can't turn the key, that is mechanical on the steering column. You may need to remove the ignition to free it.

Did it knock before the clutch change?

Yes, could be useful although the head unit is close, unless you have the need to control it from the back seat.

Ah I suppose key 1 and key 2 are completely different inputs so you can connect them to two different resistor networks. I don't know why I didn't think of that.

It's that 'dated' look that I like :D Not too fussed about resale value, mainly just cost to run really

I considered adding push buttons may be by the window switches on the centre console for other functions, but volume is all I use really

My opinion is the early x5 looks dated sometimes which may affect resale value.

That's put better than my explanation! Spot on. The other wire, key2, to the head unit could give extra functions by doing the same. Not sure where the settings are on the head unit but I imagine you can work it out!