And you are?

I would also disconnect your MAF sensor and see if there is any improvement. This only takes 30 seconds to do with no cost involved. If there is a marked improvement you can leave it unplugged until you have time to replace it.

A ball park idea of the condition would be good!

Hopefully before it lets go and trashes his new rad 😉

Check the bottom crank pulley for delaminating damper, they start clicking when failing.

Have you tried to drive it in reverse for a short distance to loose any transmission wind up?

That would simply indicate a dicky starter motor to me. Cover the basics first.

Do a search for TD5 fuel filter housing: it has a one way duck valve to prevent fuel returning to the tank. Many people have replaced the complete housing to cure their similar problems.

British Leylands Land Rover V8 diesel project iceberg : https://www.aronline.co.uk/engines/project-iceberg/

Definitely an air leak but not necessarily a 'bag leak' it could be a pipe or as in my case one of the valves attached to the compressor. I used a spray bottle of soapy water to pinpoint my air leak.

BRAKE!

Just check the engine no. It will either start with 10P or not (15P -19P) if it’s been replaced. The TD5 engine number is on the left hand side of the engine (turbo side) about half way along the block below the exhaust manifold. Nothing wrong with a good 10P

Do a search on here for 'snapped crankshafts' / 'crankshaft failure'

Drain tubes should be fine although the plastic corner connectors are prone to snapping off. Once replaced the tube which hangs free from the factory should be stuck to the roof to stop the weight of the free hanging tubes from snapping the corner connectors off again.

You would just be adding another potential failure point for no logical reason.