You have a Dixie airhorn?

Yes, it looks possible to get a hand in from underneath but not much room. The RAVE method is to remove the battery and then its tray!

The modulator can be a total bar-steward to get all air out. I used an Ezibleed kit when I replaced mine and flushed about 3 litres of DOT 4 through before pushing another 2 litres through the lines themselves. Front lines are usually OK. As...

If the brake lines to the back have never been changed, replace them as they will be rusty where you can not see them they are atleast 20years old, here are some pics of mine they were not leaking but crumbled when you tried to move the pipes

I'm seriously beginning to consider just fitting an air-horn setup that plays Dixie!

You can't. It is part of the horn. Looked at doing that first.

If you want reliable then don't look at any Range Rovers. Buy a Lexus RX.

Actually, looks more like the standard waterproof one.

Got the car working again, wohoo. The immobilization code had changed. Also the engine type was wrong on becm settings? It was "early edc", tought that was weird since mine is -99. So switched that to late edc and after that i got it running...

Just remember groved side goes on a grooved pulley and smooth side goes on a smooth pulley.

Got a spare horn on the scrapper but not sure if it works.

C196 it is. More likely to be a Superseal. At that price it might be worth a shot.

There are two connections on the new horn but no plus or minus or earth symbol. One side might have 06 stamped next to it.

Suppose you’d only need to strip the damaged parts but getting it match would be difficult. Sort of thing stranger wouldn’t notice but for you it would be constantly itching away. Years ago you used to get people would come round tune your piano...

Seems to be OK. Nothing above the wheel arches. Bit of a mystery. I'll have a more thorough look next time I am under there.

the old girl is back, brake adjust and panel bashing😎👍

I wonder if you could get away with some clear-setting epoxy from a modelling shop with a dash of wood dye in it?

Not much. I did give it a bit of a flush until it ran clear.

Maybe one for @pwood999 ? I used my horn the other day and wasn't very impressed. Then I heard @MrGorsky 's horn and it didn't sound like mine. A little investigation revealed my right hand horn was a) loose and b) not working. If you take the...

Strictly speaking it was yesterday but I changed the oil in the final drive units. Rear wasn't bad but the front was a grey emulsion. No sign of oil getting past the seals and the breather is fine yet it looks like water got in. I have done a lot...

The sensors are fixed to the chassis, why would longer wires be needed for Arnott's? Longer actuating arms maybe.

Paint them orange they’ll be fine 😇

As RRDT suggested they may have been trying to get a later / earlier sensor to work. Other option is that they had Arnot 3 springs and longer shocks at some stage for greater articulation and had to extend all the sensor wires.

You forgot the plastic toothbrush.

Doubt it was an option as it means rerouting a brake line and possibly an airline.

1997 is when they went dual tail pipe.

What about welding into the damaged areas then filing back down to a smooth finish before rechroming?

Very rare to need topping up. Follow the rear brake lines down, especially where they cross over the rear axle. Check for any dampness. If you have stainless steel braided flexis then check the ends for weeping.

There you go

Have to admit I cleaned out the rust and then whacked on a load of grease to try and protect it the last time I did mine. Didn't have any stonechip paint left!