Sold elsewhere.

Got ya. I think mine has military fronts and series mid row doors.

It's a landy! Since when have they supposed to have been civilised? I suppose the middle row interior door handles would look a little strange without a door card.

A secure bonnet really helps when your battery is under the passenger seat.

Mine aren't to bad but as you say are in use. You are probably best just making some out of thin ply and covering them?

I have some on mine but don't know of anywhere to get replacements.

He means the 2nd row doors as he has a station wagon.

Find someone local with a 3d printer? You can get it custom made to fit what you want then then.

As I said in my first post "Also check fuses, I seem to remember each headlight is fused separately." If you google "land rover defender fuse box diagram" it show that there are individual fuses for left and right, dip and mainbeam. So 4 fuses...

Have you checked the fuses?

Have you checked the fuses? Is it only the main beam not working? Does dip work correctly?

That's similar to how I remember my brownchurch rack fitted. Looking at the OPs photo there doesn't appear to be anything on the legs to attach the gutter clamp part to?

Check that you have voltage to the relevant terminals on your nearside headlight. Check that the headlight unit is grounded correctly. Check the fuses. The trouble is once you depart from the standard setup no-one knows how your current setup...

Do you have a multi meter?

Swap head light bulbs. It could be that high beam has blown on your current nearside? Also check fuses, I seem to remember each headlight is fused separately.

Could you ask whoever you got the rack from?

Due to upgrading to its bigger brother I'm selling my Bambu Labs A1 3d printer with the AMSLite. £220 collected from Sutton Coldfield, it can be shown working. It's just over a year old and has worked flawlessly for me during that time. It comes...

Try removing the front prop. Then going for a drive with the centre diff lock engaged. If the noise has stopped it's something to with the front half of the drive train. If not reinstall the front prop and remove the rear and go for a drive. Etc...

Tax free is nice. I've just got my '85 one registered historic.

@tottot it is a 1978, but it came with the old NA 2.5 diesel. It is definitely a Frankenbtruck. Thats' why i am happy to bolt it together any way that works. It seems that you and @Grebby are telling me the front hubs should always be locked...

You can't have the front hubs unlocked and the centre diff unlocked. If you do then the centre diff will sent power to the front prop as it's the easiest to turn. The front prop turns the front diff, which will then send to both or either...