There is a potentiometer in the pump top. I'm trying to remember what it looked like but I recall you can clean it. I think it might have some sort of ribbon cable that solders on one side in order to get it out and clean underneath it but I...

Had a bit of bad luck and then good fortune. Had work mens large van on driveway today and decided to reverse the P38 off passed it. Yikes caught passenger wing mirror on their side door handle and made a mess of the mirror. My fault no damage...

Had an epic oil change day. Engine, autobox, transfer box and both diffs.

A tapered drift would likely pull that straight. On my 110 (same set up really) I knocked the drift in from the opposite side to where the bolt goes in, once it was lined up the drift protruded to far through for me to get the bolt in, I...

I did one at a time on the 110 but it still rotated a bit. A jack under the diff nose and a long tapered drift through the remaining bolt holes pulled it straight .it was a faff though and I've got a pit too, lying on your back would be a pita I...

+1 on this. Did you remove both sodes at the same time ? If so, thats why the asle rotated a bit.

Thank you for the picture. I got around 100 ohm so pretty close. I think 80-120 is normal.

What he said. Not on a 38 but a 110, I had to jack the nose of the diff up, which rotates it, a bit to get the trailing arms lined up.

Surely the axle needs rotating?

This is the resistance reading I got on a brand new no4 injector.

You know you luv it😘

Durty perv. :vb-eyebrows:

Unbelievable! that worked wonderfully with the press. It took less than 2 minutes and the bushes were out. I thought too much about it. Thanks to everyone for the support!!!

https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/info-repairing-window-switchpack-switches.187593/

No chance of that kiddo, the gearbox constantly adjusts the clutch biting point itself and if it's struggling it will have gone over it's programmed limit for the clutch. Sometimes you can get it to relearn with diagnostics but normally it means...

There is a micro switch on the handbrake that closes when you lift the handle up and opens when it is down. If you lift the rubber you will see it. There is 1 wire to the switch which is bolted to the handbrake bracket, which itself is an earth...

Get yourself a multimeter, cheap enough and you can test the switch and know for sure. It's possible the switch is OK and the wire has chaffed through somewhere and is permently earthed. You can test that with the meter too. Useful kit for...

Must be a big tupperware box for the steel bumpers ?

Suppose you've tried googling to see if that can be over ridden so it's all manual?