That doesn't look standard and, the wire has deformed the hose causing the leak, could also be drawing in air.

Now you've jinxed it

Give it time.

Wash it down, run it and lay there watching for the trail to start. I'd go for crank seal but you need to verify that👍

Water softners use salt and indeed the water is judged to be bad fo consumption if for instance you have high blood pressure due to the high salt content, unless it's a new form of softner that works like a dehumidifier and produces condensate.

Cracked expansion tank, some leaks don't show till the pressure in the system is up ...

There's lots of places for a leak. Heater matrix/o-rings, radiator, so the pipes and connections, throttle body, head gasket, cylinder if you have a cracked block, but those last 2 would prioritise the coolant system. What's easy to miss is a...

The sensor will cause sporadic readings if faulty - it won’t stop a fire being hot - so it’s not that.

The problem is not the sensor,as I said in a PM it's likely to be the thermostat stuck open.

Ive been using Liqui Moly KFS12. That should be available pretty much anywhere. I wouldnt use tap water, it will leave deposits in your coolant system. Deionised is the best and distilled is second best. You should be able to get distilled for...

As long as it will mix with what is in there without turning to jelly. I'd just top up with distilled water until the problem is sorted then drain ad refill with any antifreeze approved for alloy engines which is almost all. Anti freeze should...

De-ionised would be cheaper I think. And fine. You just don't want the chalky minerals from hard tap water clogging up your channels...

Start up from cold and see how long it takes the radiator to warm through. It'll get hot at the quickly as normal but if it starts blowing warm air from behind the fan quickly it could be an open thermostat. Watch your fingers😜 run for about...

i'm not sure what changing a sensor will achieve :(

That's it just change parts and ignore advise given on how to find the problem. "It's probably this and probably that" is an expensive route to take but hey. It's your cash dude. 👌

Got the car working again, wohoo. The immobilization code had changed. Also the engine type was wrong on becm settings? It was "early edc", tought that was weird since mine is -99. So switched that to late edc and after that i got it running...

The sensors are fixed to the chassis, why would longer wires be needed for Arnott's? Longer actuating arms maybe.

Yeah thats pretty much the conclusion i came to too. Itll work to run a normal cut ring and pinion in the front but its gonna be abit more noisey and wear faster and be weaker(but the fact thats its only an 8 tooth pinion makes it way stronger...

There was a debate about this some time ago with the 2/4pin diff variations. As far as I remember the one needs to be reverse cut to avoid long term wear. Bemble would probably know

Finished. Seems to be holding OK. Took it for a test-drive and drove it like I stole it on the way back. No sign of any weeps. The turbo-wheezle has 5/8" outer diameter oil pipes. An adjustable pipe cutter does a lovely job if you undo the pipe...

The pictures are obviously doctored. Heavily. The mileage didn't match what's on the dash. I call scam 🤨🧐

Lights are all wrong for that year:rolleyes:

About 2 months ago my brother managed to get an eka code directly from landrover, they only asked for a vin number and it was the correct eka code they gave us. This was from landrover South Africa though.

+1 on this "read the code in the EDC and write it to the BECM."

Anyone with any experience with fitting Ashcroft 4.12 ratio ring and pinions to p38 diffs? My brother and i have been busy with this all weekend. First question: when he ordered the new ring and pinions he just ordered 2 sets without paying...

They are the notches yes. I run the bead all the way along that top edge too so it joins up with the notch on the other side. And go around the coolant ports at the back and front. I've always has a weep of coolant from this area unless I seal...

Good news, both heads are on and have been torqued down to ARP spec (although that doesn't feel very tight!) Next step is the exhaust manifolds, I made a start on them but the new gasket slipped between the heat shield and the engine block, so I...

+1

They'll be pushing against the valve springs. I put mine in with the valve bridge unbolted and then bolted the bridge down (using the sequence in RAVE). As you tighten the bolts down, the valves will open on those valves that are being acted...