I think the issue you will face is there were factory station wagons registered as light utility. So the dvla just points to those and says you already have the correct category. I assume you are looking at ulez etc? I have just converted mine to a station wagon but as it is an ‘89 and I...

I am looking at the glencoyne website (LINK) for fitting a 300tdi using an LT77box. and I am after a little more information on this line from anyone else who has done this: "You also need to grind a little metal off the outside of the housing to clear the clutch slave cylinder, and this is...

Would need some more details on this. Does it change with engine revs, or road speed, or is it always constant? does it happen if you put the transfer box, or gearbox in neutral? doe sit change when underload or engine braking. I would suggest it is not linked to the timing belt failure as it...

what areas specifically have you failed on? Some parts are more involved than others, but the usual places are relatively straight forward to change out, all the pieces are available, and if you are handy with the spanners you could do a lot of the work yourself, and then just get a mobile...

From what I have picked up on the forum chatter their quality control has improved. But still not sure I will be ordering form them when the time comes. I need a chassis and bulkhead for the station wagon, but that will probably come from Richards, same as the chassis on my 110.

Just come across your thread and makes for interesting reading as at some point I plan on rebuilding the 200tdi that had the engine fire. Also as a shameless plug given your current crank issues I have a 200tdi crank for sale that has been fully reground if it is of any interest to you for...

Mud do a replacement, but it is probably available from other places as well: LINK Depends on the exact wiring for your model but at '86 I would expect it to be permanent live. On later models it was changed to be ignition only.

There should be a little Domed plastic cover that hides them all and aches to the back of the centre pane using the same screws. Even with everything listed above there is likly To still be some spare connections. There as in mine.

You can replace them, but they are part of the instrument so you have to carefully uncrimp the front bezel, remove the bezel being careful the glass doesn't fall and break, then remove the instrument itself so you are just left with the metal casing. you can then remove the broken bulb holder...

I have a couple of similar repairs to undertake on my replacement station wagon tub. My plan was to use tigerseal (or sikaflex, i am not brand loyal!) to glue the repair plate in place along with some rivets. I am not trying to achieve a perfect finish so am not trying to make invisible repairs...

Everything that does not get hot, or move. But make sure you do the inside of the chassis box sections as well, that is even more important than the outside.

I know you have painted the outside of the chassis but I would still cover the external with a chassis wax as well. I like dinitrol personally as it actually "dries" rather than remaining wet like waxoil.

Keep the rectangular fog lights, looks better on an older defender in my opinion. I got my RDX ones from bolt on bits on ebay. They definitely do the clear lenses (I am also not a fan of them, keep it original looking) so there may well be smoked versions.

Other than indicators all the others are just direct replacement plug and play. I fitted RDX LED side, rear and fog lights to mine during the rebuild. I left the indicators as standard due to the endless threads of people fitting LEDS and them not working.

I looked into this when I was trying to persuade the wife she wanted one but she was adamant they were too big. A 90 has the same footprint (length and width) as a golf. And no one thinks a golf is a large car! In a 90 you can carry passengers, luggage, the dog etc. but you can only choose one...