With the serial cable plugged in, open Device Manager, and Delete the windows serial driver. Then run the FTDI Installer. Do not use device manager to install it. Then back in Device Manager / USB Serial / Properties check the cable...

Yes they will disappear when you delete the windows driver. . . .BUT windows usually reinstalles its own driver after reboot !! Make sure you only remove the Serial driver, not the entire Ports tree. Do not reboot yet. Run the FTDI...

Have you tried changing Comm ports? From memory I think EAS Unlock defaults to Comm 1 (Keith will know) I have to use Comm 4

Sod that then!

You have answered an issue I have had for years, never really looked into it though, my HEVAC has dimmed while pressing the brake pedal for years, I thunked it was normal :) Thanks Pete

In that case check each of the ground points. It any are rusty, then clean them up & re-fix. Can't do any harm whil;e you're saving for the Nanocom !! Many years ago, the one on RH front door pillar was going bad on my green P38. The symptom...

Starts and then stops unless I give a fair amount of wellie, it then runs rough as rats, plugged in it runs fine and smooth apart from the random engine dying bit.

Will it run on default values if you just unplug the MAF?

Also check the wires inside the MAF connector. They are rather close to the EAS pipes on GEMS, so could have an intermittent connection.

I think the MAF is the culprit, when going slow on a roundabout or junction the rpm is in the region of 700ish the MAF reading goes up and down from 25kg and when the car starts to “hunt” it goes down as far as 0 for a second or so. As soon as it...

Although I agree it's unlikely to be the IACV, worth checking & cleaning anyway. Are all the LPG hose secure on the manifold ? Prob worth cleaning the throttle body & checking for leaks there as well.

They read as ok

Are the o2 sensors good?

I can't say I have, I didn't really consider that because she runs as smooth as silk up to and after these episodes

One thing to add is that it only (so far) does it at slow speeds, no misfires or hesitation when going faster, it does hesitate a little if booting it but then it always has so I usually put it in sport mode and it boots down fine.

it happens when running on lpg? so it can't be the fuel pump or rail pressure. you can unplug the maf and drive without it, but it doesnt sound like a maf problem also unlikely to be the idle air bypass valve i think you need to see the injector...

HT leads/plugs are 2 years, coil packs as far as I know are AD 1997 :) I have had the old girl since 2010 and I haven't changed them prior to that my brother had it for 4 or 5 years and he certainly didn't change them. It does it either hot or...

Hmmm, if it only did it hot I would suspect a crank or cam sensor starting to go. It may still be. How old are the coil packs and HT leads?

All other electrics are ok as far as I can see

Check crank sensor & connector. It's down the left passenger side of the engine, & a common location for oil or moisture to get in. When it dies, do other electrics cut out as well ? I had an issue with the main battery connection on a...

The fuse box is pretty new TBH but I will take a look and see, I do have a spare to try too

Thanks Pete, so far no faults logged which is why I am scratching my head

I am not sure if anyone can point me in the right direction but I will ask. I have a 98 4.6HSE which has a random issue. Sometimes when starting it dies immediately or chugs a little and then runs fine (hot or cold) most times it starts and runs...

I suspect those tank O rings may have never been changed since new. When I replaced the pipework a few weeks ago, I probably disturbed them and that's when they started leaking...

We all knew you would get it in the end :)

Well after giving me the run around for a few days I think I've got to the bottom of it. I swapped out my valve block for a re-furbed one I had on the shelf, and also cleaned up and renewed the o rings on the drier that I observed bubbling with...

if I still had my equipment I would, it use to be my profession in the days of yore.....

Keith I am not sure if my memory is right but didn't Kurt sell the NRV's? I bought a couple of sets a few years back but for the life of me I cannot remember from who and I cannot find the invoice/payment details

Very light pressure needed. Lathe is best, you can use wet or dry 600 grade instead of a file if you prefer but maybe when you get the valves out they are OK.

The book symbol is due to failure of the blend motors not the aircon. Access the blend motors, remove the one for the blend flap and then position the flap manually. Anything but Brtipart for the steering damper. Take the old one off and test...