Dont think so Mate, there is no allen bolts but there may be extra holes drilled. but it was mated to gearbox pretty good, Will be putting it back in soon so will find out.

Ordered new clutch kit 9.5 inch , Just trying things out with old plate on so hoping things are will be in working order when I fit new.

Well Done , Mate, I am trying to do something similar 200tdi in to series 2, so will be watching your thread for hints and tips.

Thats just answered my question perfect Mate Thanks

Yes it does look quite good, but which pressure plate do Get for the 2a box ?

I would save your money and refuse the original , looks hardly used!

Tha Thanks, do you think I should use one of these ? God knows how that other one worked, but I suspect it was fitted then sat in the rolling chassis and probably never tried...

Series 2 rebuild which has a 200 tdi engine, Just about ready to fit new clutch , Please forgive me but I know there will be an Obvious answer to this but I do not know. The old clutch I took out in first pic did not look to bad but has been...

Went ahead with the seal and gasket I have, Thought it would have slid straight on in the housing but no way so Improvised with the Land Rover special tool and plastic protector you get with the Dowty seals, with one of the tubs you get curry...

Thanks Mate, I have already looked at that, think it will go over the journal on crankshaft ok but have not got the special tools to drive it right down in the housing.

Might have to wait and order another, Knocked it in tonight went in quite easy but left it flush, now that I have looked at more vids when I got back I think it should be tapped in all the way down. Probably settled where it is now, when I try...

I don't have the special tool either and have just carefully tapped around the seal to seat it' I do second @miktdish above re the seal, those brown ones fit easy enough but do not last in this situation and many have started to leak in a few...

Thanks Again. Cant get better seal untill next week, so just gonna use what I have got, bloody sick of getting held up waiting for parts to get delivered. Will have a go anyway then if it goes bad will have to order. . The seal I have is...

Thanks Been watching a few vids , and guides seems people have there different ways, on this vid he puts sealer around the outside of seal in the housing, few others do it to. Gonna try my local landy shop hoping they have a better seal and...

I would fit an OEM/JLR part rather than the £5 version. I have know a few people that have developed a leak after a couple of years (some sooner) whereas originals tend to last for a lot longer...

Engine off stand and on bench now so Think I will fit flywheel and seal first jut to be safe, , been dreading this as Manual does not really say much about it and cant find much on google etc. I do have the seal and gasket, think it is just the...

There's no science here, just sticking two things together. Use a good bead but not enough that it enters the sump, torque the fixings up appropriately and that's it.

Thanks Did you do them both at once , I done the ladder frame first tonight to let it dry overnight then will do the sump tomorrow.

Ready to fit ladder frame and sump soon, gonna use this stuff https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/products/elring-dirko-sealant-sealing-compound Want to get it done first try if I can. Any hints or tips ?

That's how I did it on my rebuild and it runs great. Flywheel has a locating dowel so providing your crank is aligned properly the flywheel peg will fit. I guess using the flywheel pin would be slightly more accurate than the mark, but the teeth...

So just set timing marks as normal and fit belt ?

Thanks left it as it is for now in last pic. think I better take the bloody thing back off just to be safe.

What Marjon means is with the rockers fitted and no cambelt, if/when you rotate the engine to line up the timing marks any open valves could make contact with the pistons. So safest to remove rocker gear then fit belt etc. This why when engine...

If it is in the state of your last pic then you are fine. But rocker arms and shaft means valves are open to me. J

Not sure what you mean, watched a couple of vids on youtube and copied what they done,

Need flywheel for timing pin.

Sealer has not come yet for sump so fitted head with new bolts, went by the book first torque 40nm then 2 60 degree turns, hope Ive done it right. Also fitted rocker arm and push rods etc. Can the timing belt be fitted now ? or do I need the...

Bit farther forward, bearings and crank fitted, Head back from machine shop pressure tested and skimmed, bores honed with new rings, timing case and pump back on. Just waiting on sealer for ladder frame and sump also head gasket kit. Not sure...

I would do the torque in stages and if crank won’t turn at say 70Nm then got a problem, you can reuse the bolts if in good condition as they’re not designed to yield at that torque

Sorry Mate I forgot you posted that I have downloaded the 200tdi one. Found the torque it is 130 to 136 nm, worried now that the bloody bolts may snap or stretch, as I will be doing it twice, once to plastigauge then again to finally fit.