The radius arms literally connect the axle to the chassis, they're the big chunky things that bolt underneath. As far as I'm aware the radius arms connect and keep the axle in position, stopping it moving back/forth and then the panhard rod is...

Honestly, neither are a big job. Radius arm bushes are the bigger of the two, if you are doing it yourself without a press then you should opt for poly bushes. Your axle shouldn’t have outer hub seals, the caps act as the outer seal and it’s a...

That's not hub seal then, hub seal would leak behind the wheel. Pretty sure the rubber end caps have been mentioned already? Zoom in and you will see it.

Sounds like diff oil leaking out of the end caps then. You’ll need to check the diff breathers are clear and possibly replace the rubber caps (get genuine if you can). The breather is on the top side of the diff. Very easy to unscrew it and...

Hub seals might just be the rubber end caps leaking? Have a look where the leak is coming from. You’ll need access to a hydraulic press to replace the bushes, unless you opt for poly. A friendly garage might change the bushes if you took the arms...

i know thats why i asked the motor type. For any motor, the specs are 1000% percent important. Quality of oil, maybe you can play around with but do your research and you will understand. Google lake speed the oil geek.

It’s not a TD5 though. Probably a 19J 2.5TD, or maybe a 200tdi transplant. Neither of which are particularly fussy as to exact specs. Front hub seal leaks could possibly just be the rubber hub caps.

Shiny new sender, gave the tank a coat of some left over green chassis paint someone gave me a few yrs ago. Clashes a bit with the silver chassis .

I can't do that without a lot of faff. I run bio which eats rubber and I've converted everything to clear nylon pipe and compression fittings and a facet 12v pump. My plan is to fit a 8 or 10mm 90deg compression fitting to the sender and lengthen...

I can’t remember the size off the top of my head, but I deleted that pipe and now have one length of diesel hose from the sender to the lift pump.

I knew what you meant! You’re probably still elated from not having to pay the ATC again! One more year for me…if the buggers don’t change it.

Oops corrected to 1984

I would agree as that is my preference. But as there is already holes drilled in the wings for the separate headlight guards I would Be going guards and a-bar. @Landlover99 it may not be a cosmetic change. But I would fit a set of these: LINK...

Your 110 was born Nov 2024? 🤔

Wraparound period bullbars, black grille and black light surrounds and she’ll look mint.

You can find the part numbers on this diagram. Hope it helps.

I reckon I may have found a big part of the issue. Removed the panhard rod and the bushes are completely degraded after only a few months so those will be getting replaced as will the radius arm bushes just to be sure

Some Bosch pumps have a small filter on them. Can’t remember exactly where, but it’s hiding under a bolt (if present). Worth exploring. Sounds fuel related.

Checked the lift pump when I took it out the box and it's nice and strong, great suck and blow action which is what I like. The fuel lines are larger than standard, I replaced them all years ago. I might replace the fuel filter again and stick a...

I’d be looking for a faulty lift pump (even from new) or an obstruction in the fuel line somewhere (possibly even within the lift pump).

No bearing movement on it at all and swivels are all good

Jack up the n/s/f wheel and check for bearing and/or swivel pin play.

I'll have a look at it tonight then. One of the steering UJs is newish, the other is probably original.

I had replaced the damper ages ago to try and solve the problem but no difference

I’d say N/S preload, followed by steering shaft UJs. Maybe both.

Fix the other side, new top pin and bush if there is any side to side movement at the top of the swivel housing. In this case just removing shims will only improve things for a bit.