That's how I understand it. Unplugging the fuel rail sensor provides some default values apparently. Voltage from centre wire (bluey colour) to ground should be around the 1.8 to 2 V level on idle.

So with a camera in the injector hole and a thin pipe and syringe fed into the glowplug hole, I injected oil around the edge of the piston. Bingo, the compression is back. Over 350 psi. That's what my gauge goes to !! So, a head change won't...

OK. All bases covered then ! Could do an oil injection and test again to check rings. Only problem is the huge cavity shape on the piston crown will fill up first.

Got glow plugs out and did compression test. All 4 between 175 and 200 psi. No good me thinks. I was expecting 400 ish ?? So, is this heavily carboned valves not closing based on the crud in the manifold or worn pistons based on the 140k miles...

I used one of these. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/316459686985?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=e3cwdbsxtfe&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=b5qQSb6hQNK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

The last one I did, with the correct sized sleeves for pressing, I did on the car. Unbolted arms from subframe, pop out driveshaft, reattach arms loosely and then drive out hub and press out bearing. Then press in new one and press in hub...

I've just made up a remote crank cable. An old starter relay with a 2m cable connected across the contacts and a 10A push button. Simply flap open the engine fuse box and swap the relay for the test lead and cranking by button and you can watch...

So in summary; Rear driveshaft assembly with part number TOB000070. This replaces part number TOB000000. This assembly includes the CV joints. Suitable for: Freelander 1 from vin 1A316655 to vin 2A385539 AND Drive shaft assembly for the rear...

Crap spreads to fill the space available !! I need more space now 🫣

Thanks for coming back with the solution. Many don't!! So to be clear are we saying that a rear driveshaft with an ABS reluctance ring is a different part from the later one without it ?? Certainly front shafts I have simply removed the ring...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/how-to-recondition-a-vcu-yourself.307445/page-6#post-3937567

It's amazing. All you need to ensure is that no one has been there before you and fractured it already !!!

Noted. But the technique for removing works well !!

Had to remove 4 x glowplugs from my TD4 2005 recently. None moved and I know, from a bench test of a broken one, that they snap at 30 ftlb. I didn't want to break them so trawled for techniques that might work. This one looked reasonable and it...

Sadly this looks like oil and engine fumes contaminating the coolant. Best to get compression test and / or a 'sniffer' test where a chemical held over the header tank can show engine fumes in the coolant. Suspect head gasket is failing.

My pressure gauge arrived with a bsp to M12 x 1.5 adaptor which allows it to fit the injector end of the fuel pipes or in place of the fuel rail pressure sensor. All good and in excess of 6,000 psi when cranking. Now with an injector out and...

I'm hoping a logical approach will not only be educational but also fruitful ! I have a feeling you might be right although I need to know how the injectors are fired and whether RAVE is correct. An alternative is to take voltage readings from...

I don't want to doubt RAVE but is this correct? Each injector has an electrical connector which provides a 12V direct supply from the main relay and connections to the ECM. If the battery voltage falls to between 6V and 9V, the operation of the...

While waiting for the high pressure gauge, decided to fit a spare HP pump. For info, no need to remove starter or coolant fitting, remove regulator so that you can get to the bottom nut, lift engine a bit with mount off and straightforward job...