Funny isn't it, I fitted Britpart oem rear bushes to my son's Ninety 5 years ago and are fine.

Thank you., don't suppose you know what the part number for the 4mm glass channel is ?

Started fitting a new air con fan motor on my son's Td5. Bit of a faff as he has front spot lamps and all the fan housing screws snapped. Just soldered the wires today and will refit the spot lights once I have painted the mounting bar. Oh...

I am not convinced, maybe you would be better off paying someone.

I have never heard of such a thing, what does it do? Edit: Blimey how much!

Welcome Richard Willetts. Sure someone might be able to help you better if you said what year vehicle you have. Sounds too new for me.

We had a positive earth 2a which we changed to negative earth. The original sender unit carried on working normally.

Is the felt glass channel in one or two section? Is the correct part number MUC4071 for a 4mm window? Thanks in advance.

What a crying shame, must be terrible. Stick the reg plate up, just incase it's still on the correct plates. Hope you get it back.

It isn't much work, you would do well to find a video on YouTube. Wheel off, release track rod end, place a jack under the swivel for support, undo top two bolts, remove shim, do up bolts and check. You will probably need to experiment with...

CPS maybe for engine light, you need a code reader to verify the code. Squealing noise could be related to anything attached to the auxiliary belt. Diesel pump? Do you mean the fuel pump in the tank?

Not strictly true as the Brotpart cellular dynamics and springs are doing well on my son's Ninety, the same shocks are doing well on his D2. Failed miserably on my 90 as mentioned. Brake calipers and discs doing well on the D2. To be fair in...

My Britpart cellular dynamic shocks only did a couple of thousand miles before they gave up.

So, I had to move the old Disco so I could do some strimming, but found the key fob wouldnt open the doors. Luckily one of the rear doors locks is knackered, so I still had a way in. None of the fobs would open the deadlocked doors, so found some...

That's exactly why it's recommended to fit genuine only when it comes to a TD5 tensioner.

Cheap enough, so no big deal. You're right though, jobs always get bigger than you think.

What's wrong with your seats, you can get refurb kits and they are comfy enough.

Nope. 135Nm(ish) does fine, never come loose and I can undo the wheel nuts with my Makita buzz gun. I have my torque wrench set to 135Nm but I always seem to go a bit over.

Or ATF.

I tried converting it to mm but it seems like such a tiny amount it's not worth the worry.

So you don't use the recommended 170nm on your Wolf wheels?

I thought it was recommended to use genuine.

ÀTF fluid isn't it?

I'm a bit undecided about the idea of fitting locking wheel nuts. My son would like to fit some but I'm concerned about fitting them and using 170nm of torque on them, seems like a recipe for disaster. What do we think?

Do you know what the torque setting is for the standard steel wheels?

I believe that they are.

My original TD5 drop arm had a notch in it and also the replacement has the notch in it.

One rear wheel is negative toe and the other is positive toe which suggest the rear axle is very slightly out if whack. That's how I read it anyway.

Seems like no one thought it was worth that much.

How come the rear toe is out of spec? I know it's not adjustable.