I’ve got the professional equipment for the job.

🙄

Carefully inspect the rear chassis legs all the way up to where the trailing arms attach to the chassis before making a decision. Use a pointy thing as part of your decision making. I repaired the same area on my son's Ninety a couple of years...

I always use Blue Hylomar in addition to any gasket I fit.

Ok, I'm out.

Does it have a dummy cat or no cat at all?

I have used Britpart OEM ones 9 years ago and still going strong, unlike the poly ones which lasted 1 week. You buy the standard cheap Britpart ones and they are only any good if you are selling it.

Mismatch between sender and gauge maybe. I put an additional sender in the top hose and matching additional gauge due to being to scared of the possibility of the thread in the housing getting stripped. Temp for a 200tdi is in the late 90's...

Far easier method. I used a big G-clamp for the original type bush. In general I prefer using them where possible rather than poly,. Should point on there is no scientific reason behind my decision, well there might be but I don't know what it is 😂

Thank you Anaconda! I looked at the video. My local workshop did not have the side sliding turntables shown in the video. It's the first time I've seen those. They only had stationary turntables. That explains everything. Guess I was unlucky in...

Smith and Allan oils are good. This one would be better for a PD type engine. https://www.smithandallan.com/product/smith-allan-momentum-fs-5w-40-engine-oil-4485

But not in your engine, Right? don't want to give him the wrong idea! 🤣 🤣 🤣

I use their EP90 and that’s fine

https://www.smithandallan.com/product/smith-allan-momentum-fs-5w-30-engine-oil-4138 This one ok?

Ok it's not a Disco but you can see the turntables and plates on the ramp.

How did you press the new ones in?

The ramp has a turntable on each front wheel which moves when the bolts are adjusted, same with the rear except the ramp base moves without a turntable. The bolt isn't really pushing against the weight of the vehicle. I know the explanation is a...

https://www.autosparks.co.uk/land-rover-defender-90-110-chassis-wiring-harness-442 Maybe they have something you can use.

I reckon they might have found one or given up by now.

With regards to the noise, have the water pump replaced with the cambelt. If the noise is still there you can change the pas pump yourself at a later date if you are happy doing it.

My son made a decision to pay a specialist to do his cambelt, worst decision ever! It has been an endless drama since putting right their f××× ups since. The potential to go wrong is there regardless of you doing it or not, ether way it costs...

Welcome and good luck with your dream. Out of interest what do you class as an old Defender?

That's a good result, which one did you order?

I can't really see how anything belt driven can spin after shut off, if it does then it shouldn't be that hard to find out what it is. Can you not run it with one belt on at a time? It could be any of the belt driven parts if it is a belt driven...

If you are paying to get the cambelt done then it will cost no more to get the water pump changed, worth thinking about if you are not happy doing such jobs yourself.

Surely it all depends on how long the cables are for the sensors. I wouldn't bother with a display, just use the sound of the beeps. I would be interested in seeing how you attach the sensors though.

I would seal over the original if there is no sign of it coming off. The windscreen to roof has a foam/rubber seal but I would also seal the outside with a pu sealer of some sort. I would also fit a new windscreen seal, bulkhead to screen panel...

How did you check the pulleys, did you take the belts off?

https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/relay-guide.html They are pin numbers.

I guess it's all relative, vehicle prices have shot up and so will parts prices. My 1st car ,Mk1 Escort cost £180, if only I still had it!