P0016, P0019: Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation (likely Bank 1 and Bank 2) That's generally a pointer to the timing chain skipped. Its especially common on those early ones. I'd be vaery waring of running it... one more "inicident" and the repair bill could double...

I can't tell if you're talking about the Chinese version or JLR's new vehicles... ;) I'm VERY wary of the long term life of new Chinese cars... but no more wary than anything new from JLR, anyway.

Disco 2's have traction control... The centre diff in the LT230 likes to destroy itself if it spins too fast/long :( If my Disco 1 wasn't such a ****box, I'd get Ashcroft ATBs front, centre and rear: Then it'd be like a proper AWD on the road and good enough for the offroading I do. My VW...

It'll be one very, very black line, with an LT230 🤣 All the power turns to smoke at the inside front wheel when accelerating on corners :( My Disco wears the front left twice as fast as all the other tyres, from lighting up when trying to pull out of side roads. 3 open diffs feeds all the power...

It could end up being the longest running thread on the site...

Is Bank 2 at +25%? Check for an exhaust leak on that side - it'll let air in, causing the ECU to see it as a lean condition, and crank up the fuelling. Remember it's using the level of O2 in the exhaust to determine if it's fuelling enough. Even a small leak will pull in air between exhaust...

NGK. I've never had trouble with them. Dad used to have a marine shop and used many, many thousands. Had one faulty one, ever. I run NGK in my VWs and the Disco 1 (actually, everything, in honesty 🤣 ) High RPM misfire can be a worn cam too, if it comes across like like rough running and sudden...

Probably the thermostat stuck part open - that's the more usual way for them to fail, so warmup take ages, if at all...

Huh? Guessing you haven't owned one then, or maybe didn't know where to look? There is a MASSIVE range of "aftermarket" parts for BMW, even from the manufacturers who made the originals: Lemforder, Valeo, Bosch, Bremi, Beru, etc, etc, etc. They are generally very reasonably priced - almost...

It's trying hard to reduce the fuelling on the even bank. A new sensor does NOT gaurantee it's OK. Also needs the wiring checked. The 14CUX is pretty basic, A lambda sensor fault is NOT usually caused by a reading that's a bit out of range, but by a dramatically off issue - such as no signal...

Holy crap. Opposite of up here! I was sweating my balls off! Must have been 90% humid, but "only" 26C. Prolly doesn't help that I changed jobs - no longer in Public health, where you get to do stuff-all for double the pay... I now work in a giant laundry factory... and it gets hot and humid...

I'm in NZ, but use www.spareto.com although I only buy brands I know from there. I've never had an issue and have probably spent about the equivalent of 5000 UK Pounds for BMW's, VW/Audi, Subaru, Land Rover and some oddball other cars.

Here, On a Disco 1 This is with the wing removed, and the plastic scuttle cover, at the very base of the A pillar Door on the left of the pic, corner of bonnet of the right (green): But that ENTIRE seam on Disco 1's lets water in, once the crappy sealer has dried out... it then hold moisture...

At the base of the windscreen, where the pillar joins the inner wing and scuttle area, there is a hole from manufacture. It *had* sealer in it, but it dries out - just like the ****ty crap the used in the gutters. The whole seam is a leak point. On my Disco 1, I had to strip and reseal the...

You don't HAVE to use the correct plug - I just got a plug off a VW loom in my junk pile, and soldered it's wires to the pins in the original socket, then wired my Rovergauge to the matching VW plug. I still have both plugs under there, if I ever require the original Rover one.