I should read more words instead of concentrating on the pictures :)

That looks almost identical to mine, which I bought nearly twenty years ago. However, mine has metal tubes on the legs It hangs up in the garage roof when I'm not using it. Then these clamps go up through those tubes and clamp it to the gutter...

Taking the body off the chassis will reveal what's good to go back and what would better off being replaced. Things to consider, as your budget allows, and what conditions bits are in: Galvanised body cappings Galvanised inner sills Galvanised...

Cheers, its a 6 week lead time for Richards, still a bit 50/50 I think but you dont pay till its ready so I have ordered it ;)

Ah, sorry Julian. I was just saying some of the Defender 300Tdi's have flanged rear drive shafts, not that they will fit a salisbury diff. I've no experience of them, but from what I've read they are not interchangeable parts.

Mine is another vote for the chassis swap. Chances are the steel of the chassis rail behind the gearbox cross member flanges will be non existent, as well as all of the other holes you've already identified. As Hicap phill says, you're half way...

So for welding & make your life easier Take rear tub off. Take doors & bulkhead/wings off Carry on doing the above & your 1/2 way to a chassis swap. You know you will be chasing rust on the old chassis. Have you got space to change the...

Yeahh, thats what I am rapidly beginning to think tbh... I could probably repair this one but really, its 35 years old on a vehicle I already admit I will keep forever and I have the galvanised bulkhead ready. Yes have space and managed a bonus...

Mine is a 1996 300Tdi and mine has them on. According to the LR parts catalogue, they were used from VIN - LA930456 Here's one on Paddocks part number FTC3270. The near side is FTC3271

Well……I found the rattle. It was a strange noise, more like two pieces of sheet metal contacting each other rather than a heavy clatter. Anyway….the rattle came from the n/s front. By sheer luck I noticed that the shock absorber had no threads...

Cheers mate. Now that you mentioned it, I should have noticed they were blind rivets, and I just battered in and drilled them out without paying attention. Thanks for the heads up on that. I’m not going to buy those bottom runners though. I found...

If the bolt holes in the brackets for the panhard have worn over size that will also needs sorting or you are wasting your time just renewing bolts an bushes, had to sort the axle one on mine, rusted thin, worn oval.

Definitely sounds like the panhard rod bushes. Buy good quality bushes and tighten the bolts with a big, **** off, breaker bar. They have to be extraordinarily tight.

I have meego, but it was 11 years ago, so even if I could remember what I paid it would be right out of date. I do remember having to buy 'blind' pop rivets. I think that's what they were called. They have sealed heads, so water doesn't leak in...