It's your A-frame ball joint. sounds like the front, but it's actually from the back. it's like a knocking sound only heard once when you go over a bump in gear or when you try to reverse up hill after a long forawrd run.

clear oil? it's diesel. your fuel pressure regulator hose or joint is leaking. hence you need to replace it. you see really clear oil dripping down and it's about 4 drops per minute.

ha ha, the A frame ball joint. the source of my problem which i lived with for 3 yrs. i kept thinking it was the clutch plate or the differentials which were going to cost me a lot.

my tweeters are up on the dash board connected in parallel to the front speakers. cos that's where you spend most of your time. so the vocals will sound clearer with them there. unless of cos you want your rear passengers to enjoy your music too. but due to the constrain of space in the rear...

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welcome to the days of driving a series. ha ha. ok i know this does not help, but then again when you have owned a series and gotten used to such things, i don't see it as a problem.

yes, i've a complete audio system with intel pc on board my Td5. you can mount them at the top in each of the the corners. but as mine has rear air conditioning, i made use of the 'box' for the speakers to be mounted. alternatively you can also fabricate 2 small enclousure in the corners...

start with b20 then to b50 then to b100. i've never tried b100, but then my mate's Td5 has and he reports it's ok. pass the singapore equivalent of the MOT with flying colours for smoke test. the tester had to do the smoke test twice thinking his probe was not inserted properly. 2months into...

might be the slack in the hand brake cable. i have this problem. so if i dont press down the hand brake into position using the rubber boot, the light stays on or flickers when i drive over bumps. it doesn't bug me cos i know this exists. all i need to do is to pull back the hand brake boot...

not sure abt the first one, but the 2nd one could be your ball join on the A frame for the rear. if it's not then it's the U joints on the prop shaft.

just a curious question. i've been thru over 4 changes on the master pump and none on the slave pump, how do i know when it's going to fail or start giving me problem? when the master pump leaks in on the floor board i know it's time, however the slave pump doesn't seem to have any of these...

yes they can fit. you need to sit a new door catch as the series style (lift up handles) have a slide mechanism. i've seen a SIII with both catches fitted as the owner has defender doors and will switch the doors when going topless.

i've crappy after marked ones on my defender. they get the window up and down but 50% slower than the factory fitted ones. if yours didn't come with factory powered windows, you need to get the wiring done yourself. it's not like windows, plug and play.

open the bonnet, check the physical cable linkage to the heater. usually they come loose and do no pull to contact when you move the levers from you dash.

so you need not remove the entire tank? just get it to tilt forward a lil, till the tank sender / pump is visible? disconnect the 4 connectors, then wrestle to undo the pump and it can be replaced? the unofficial way to bleed the td5 is to put the ignition to pos II, do not start the engine...