R

RUDDdefender90

New Member
hey ya.

I noticed today the rear pass side is lower than driver side. I also was informed that both my rear shocks were slightly corroded a month back on my MOT. Shocks I now know as dampers, the more common term (Sean, 2010).


I am assuming I just need to renew the top joint? or is the whole damper in need of replacing. I dont know how they come. Also is this a simple quick job, and do I need to support anything while I exchange the damper. I assume ill have to do both rear dampers? Anything els I should or could be doing while im under here?

Here is the pic of rear (pardon my rear mud guard, which I have cut and re bolted on, hence smaller).

rudddefender90-albums-dampers-springs-picture2207-landy-jan-2010-dampers-springs-001.jpg


I have also taken a picture of the damper, which has 1-2mm play (top joint, the bottom has no play) and the washer is easily allowed to move and rotate etc.

rudddefender90-albums-dampers-springs-picture2209-landy-jan-2010-movement-top-damper-007.jpg


I have also included the springs pic (do they look ok, or to muddy to tell).

rudddefender90-albums-dampers-springs-picture2208-landy-jan-2010-dampers-springs-005.jpg
 
most dependers of that age will sit at that slightly odd looking angle - it's normal and apparently a design feature - there's an automatic system which levels it all up when the driver gets in
 
what about the play in the top of the damper?

I must say I prob never noticed before, as im sometimes ignorant to most things lol. as you noticed before Sean in my other post
 
RUDDdefender90 said:
what about the play in the top of the damper?

I must say I prob never noticed before, as im sometimes ignorant to most things lol. as you noticed before Sean in my other post
Click to expand...

that play is probably just the rubber mount having perished, and the corrosion is possibly just external - if the ride is very bouncy, or when you rock the vehicle, it doesn't quickly stop then it's likely the dampers are shot

fortunately good quality standard dampers are cheap and very easy to change

this is for a disco but the principle is the same

Dicovery rear shock replacement - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum
 
Update:

Sean just went at the beast and shook it hard! and it bounces back within the second. When I drive on flat un bumpy roads if they exist its smooth, just loud, ie engine. But, I do notice a sharp jolt when I go over speed bumps (them nasty small thing ones) , even when slow. You, know more so than a "car" and does tend to be more so at back.
 
RUDDdefender90 said:
Update:

Sean just went at the beast and shook it hard! and it bounces back within the second. When I drive on flat un bumpy roads if they exist its smooth, just loud, ie engine. But, I do notice a sharp jolt when I go over speed bumps (them nasty small thing ones) , even when slow. You, know more so than a "car" and does tend to be more so at back.
Click to expand...

that doesn't sound much to worry about - is an easy job to change them, but if they pass the MOT and you are happy with the ride why bother - but fitting new will improve the ride

but by how much ? - who knows ....
 
The damper does not control ride height. Its the springs that do that. All the damper does is stop the springs bouncing. You could take the dampers off and the height would not be affected. You have a lazy spring or springs on the passenger side which is not uncommon on older vehicles.
Easiest way to fix it is to replace the springs. I've seen springs spaced to level ride height but its not something I'd do.
You can take the rear dampers or shock absorbers off without jacking the car but it gives more room if you lift the body slightly and leave the wheel on the ground.
Dont get your head between the wheel and the wheel arch or it could be the last thing you do if something slips.
 
Last edited:
Shifty1962 said:
You have a lazy spring or springs on the passenger side which is not uncommon on older vehicles
Click to expand...

that's normal,, it's not a lazy spring - proper replacement springs are handed to allow for the weight of the fuel tank and driver and therefore it will sit up slightly when unladen

but - in such an old vehicle changing them isn't going to do any harm, or break the bank
 
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