jonnynoname28 · Jul 13, 2020

Took my Freelander 1 td4 in to have the handbrake done. It seems to have fixed it, it was almost non-existant before but holds better now. After driving home the handbrake light came on and now won't go off. Any help please? but remember I'm only a beginner

GrumpyGel · Jul 14, 2020

First thing to do is presumably check the brake fluid level.

jonnynoname28 · Jul 14, 2020

Thank you. Fluid seems ok. Is there a switch of any kind that may have gone and if so where would i find it?

Nodge68 · Jul 14, 2020

jonnynoname28 said:
Thank you. Fluid seems ok. Is there a switch of any kind that may have gone and if so where would i find it?

Sounds like the HB hasn't been adjusted using the correct method.

Was it a LR specialist who's used to doing maintenance on the Freelander?

Lots of places incorrectly adjus the cable to improve the HB, but the problem is with the rear shoes being seized, worn, or out of adjustment. Simply adjusting the cable may make it work again for a while, but it actually holds the rear brakes on, and prevents the lever from resting against its stop, hence the light.

jonnynoname28 · Jul 14, 2020

Yes it was done at Elite Landrovers in Sheffield. I've just spoken to him and he thinks it may be a damaged switch or something, i think he said its around the drivers side somewhere. If this is something i could do myself then what would i need to do?

Nodge68 · Jul 14, 2020

The HB switch is easy to change, but actually doesn't go wrong very often. Dose the light go out if you push the lever down hard?

GrumpyGel · Jul 14, 2020

If the rear drums & shoes have not been replaced in a number of years - its a job worth doing from a safety perspective alone.

Some times the pins holding the shoes in place corrode and fail faster than the shoes wear, so the first sign of trouble is an immediate loss of braking at what ever speed and situation you find yourself in!

I'm not saying that has happened here - as you still have brakes and you wouldn't get the dash light before failure, but if the brakes were 'fixed' just by tightening the cable then it might be time to consider more maintenance on the rear brakes. Its not an expensive or time consuming job to replace them.

There's some more info on this post...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...s-should-do-on-their-car.312863/#post-4320445

Nodge68 · Jul 14, 2020

GrumpyGel said:
I'm not saying that has happened here - as you still have brakes and you wouldn't get the dash light before failure, but if the brakes were 'fixed' just by tightening the cable then it might be time to consider more maintenance on the rear brakes. Its not an expensive or time consuming job to replace them.

That's my thinking GG.

jonnynoname28 · Jul 14, 2020

From what the mechanic said, he took the mechanisms apart and gave them a good clean. I don't believe anything was replaced on the brakes. I've not had the chance to pop back up yet but have been doing some reading on here, just to get things to suggest to him. He seems very knowledgable and i don't wish to undermine him.

GrumpyGel · Jul 14, 2020

jonnynoname28 said:
From what the mechanic said, he took the mechanisms apart and gave them a good clean. I don't believe anything was replaced on the brakes. I've not had the chance to pop back up yet but have been doing some reading on here, just to get things to suggest to him. He seems very knowledgable and i don't wish to undermine him.

I'm sure he's a good mechanic.

There are things though that this vehicle specific forum might have more experience on. For example those brake pins corroding and letting go. We might only see it once every 3 years on the forum - its not a common thing obviously, but when it happens its extremely dangerous. A general Land Rover garage might not have heard of it.

jonnynoname28 · Jul 15, 2020

Thanks for that. I shall continue to read up and pass on anything i find. Tis quite amazing the things you can find on here and even though i'm not in the slightest bit confident i'd be able to use anything i find due to lack of knowledge, at least i can point out what i've read. Thanks for all your help.

Nodge68 · Jul 15, 2020

jonnynoname28 said:
From what the mechanic said, he took the mechanisms apart and gave them a good clean.

I do that annually, but I'd replace anything that's done more than 100k miles/10 years, as the drums will be worn, and the shoes would become glazed after that time.

Did you try pressing the lever down to see if the light goes out? Also how make clicks are there before the HB holds the car?

jonnynoname28 · Jul 15, 2020

Yes i've pressed the leaver down as far as it will go but it makes no difference. It's on a bout 4 clicks at the moment

Nodge68 · Jul 15, 2020

jonnynoname28 said:
Yes i've pressed the leaver down as far as it will go but it makes no difference. It's on a bout 4 clicks at the moment

Ok. So there are two things that control that light. The first one is the fluid level sensor, which can loose connection at the reservoir. So before pulling the centre console out, the fluid sensor is the next place to check.

Unplug the plug at the fluid reservoir level sensor and link the two connections together with a small piece of stiff electrical wire. This will trick the ABS module into assuming there isn't an issue, at which point it should instruct the Ipack to turn off the light.

If linking those two connections together doesn't turn off the light, then the HB switch is suspect.

jonnynoname28 · Jul 15, 2020

If it's the HB switch, is it a big job and a ball park figure for getting it done? if you wouldn't mind

Nodge68 · Jul 15, 2020

jonnynoname28 said:
If it's the HB switch, is it a big job and a ball park figure for getting it done?

Not really. It's a 30 minute job. However you need to check first things first, hence the level sensor link out first.

GrumpyGel · Jul 15, 2020

Nodge68 said:
Ok. So there are two things that control that light. The first one is the fluid level sensor, which can loose connection at the reservoir. So before pulling the centre console out, the fluid sensor is the next place to check.

Unplug the plug at the fluid reservoir level sensor and link the two connections together with a small piece of stiff electrical wire. This will trick the ABS module into assuming there isn't an issue, at which point it should instruct the Ipack to turn off the light.

If linking those two connections together doesn't turn off the light, then the HB switch is suspect.

If they have had the console out between the seats to adjust the hand brake, its possible the wire could have been dislodged.

Nodge68 · Jul 15, 2020

GrumpyGel said:
If they have had the console out between the seats to adjust the hand brake, its possible the wire could have been dislodged.

Possibly, although anyone who knows the Freelander, should know there's no need to remove the console, as the access to the adjustment is through the panel at the rear of the cubby box/ arm rest.

GrumpyGel · Jul 15, 2020

Nodge68 said:
Possibly, although anyone who knows the Freelander, should know there's no need to remove the console, as the access to the adjustment is through the panel at the rear of the cubby box/ arm rest.

Yeh, but if that panel has the aux power socket on it they will have moved wiring, forget if it goes into the same loom and disappears off under the drivers seat - anything can happen when you start touching stuff.

GrumpyGel · Jul 15, 2020

TBH when I renewed my rear brakes I didn't need to touch that adjuster, the adjuster in the brakes themselves takes care of everything so long as the cables are in reasonable nick.

Member

Well-Known Member

Member

Well-Known Member

Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Member

Well-Known Member

Member

Well-Known Member

Member

Well-Known Member

Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Similar threads