andyb66
Well-Known Member
Use a filter remover and use that to break the seal. (I use my chain wrench type as my big pliers one are too big to get in there) It is then reachable around the exhaust and can be spun off by hand.
Yes I agree, awkward spot but not impossible
Take care with the two bolts on the rotor filter as they are a fine thread into an alloy casing and are easy to strip.
Yes I agree, awkward spot but not impossible
Take care with the two bolts on the rotor filter as they are a fine thread into an alloy casing and are easy to strip.
jdandcoke
New Member
i got one of these, works well on fuel filters as well
Halfords Oil Filter Pliers 300mm (12" from Halfords Price £9.49
Halfords Oil Filter Pliers 300mm (12"
from Halfords Price £9.49
foss
New Member
ref the centri filter-i did have stripped bolts about a year ago...but all is not lost. Just BE PREPARED-mine was off the road for a week because of it.
The bolt holes are actually bottomless.
I now use 2 M5 x 50mm socket cap bolts, washered & with M5 lock nuts on the bottom. The one nearest the block is fiddly as fu(k but you just need patience....& a bit of tape to hold the nut in the spanner as you have to do it blind & by touch
The bolt holes are actually bottomless.
I now use 2 M5 x 50mm socket cap bolts, washered & with M5 lock nuts on the bottom. The one nearest the block is fiddly as fu(k but you just need patience....& a bit of tape to hold the nut in the spanner as you have to do it blind & by touch
I'm really struggling to get the main filter off - been trying a strap wrench, but there's not enough room between exhaust and turbo. Used to have a chain wrench with socket, but no longer . . . .
In the end, I remember on some vehicle in the past bashing a chisel through the old filter and using that as a lever. Bit messy, but it worked.
Any thoughts on that?
BTW, very useful cautions about the thread on the rotor filter housing. I partly stripped one, but managed to fix with a longer M6 bolt which fitted the thread remaining at the bottom of the hole. Mind you, I had to use the Dremel to take the top 1 cm of the thread off so it would rotate freely in the removable part of the housing.
In the end, I remember on some vehicle in the past bashing a chisel through the old filter and using that as a lever. Bit messy, but it worked.
Any thoughts on that?
BTW, very useful cautions about the thread on the rotor filter housing. I partly stripped one, but managed to fix with a longer M6 bolt which fitted the thread remaining at the bottom of the hole. Mind you, I had to use the Dremel to take the top 1 cm of the thread off so it would rotate freely in the removable part of the housing.
Shifty1962
Well-Known Member
Use a nylon webbing strap wrench instead of the chain one.
You only need it to break the seal then spin off by hand.
Put the new one back with a smear of engine oil on the rubber and hand tighten only.
No need to crank on it to get it to seal.
I change mine every 3k miles and dont need a filter wrench to get mine off. Twist and go. Never leaks.
Do the rotor housing bolts up to 6 ft/lbs. The O ring does the sealing not the bolts.
You only need it to break the seal then spin off by hand.
Put the new one back with a smear of engine oil on the rubber and hand tighten only.
No need to crank on it to get it to seal.
I change mine every 3k miles and dont need a filter wrench to get mine off. Twist and go. Never leaks.
Do the rotor housing bolts up to 6 ft/lbs. The O ring does the sealing not the bolts.
I only had strap wrench with a handle (rather than socket sort) and there was not enough room to work . . . So in the end I took the plunge and bashed a chisel through the side of the filter. Worked a treat, and the filter was off in seconds. By the condition of the rubber seal, my guess is that the bastards who put it on tightened it up to the maximum!
I've taken advice from here, and only tightened the new one just beyond hand tight. It's running now, and no leaks.
Now to replace the SLS compressor. . . . . . .
I've taken advice from here, and only tightened the new one just beyond hand tight. It's running now, and no leaks.
Now to replace the SLS compressor. . . . . . .
andyb66
Well-Known Member
A handy hint from the chap that 'taught' me.......do up hard to reach oil filters with your left hand that way they can't be too tight.
Agree with ^^^ smear of oil hint, altho I use LM grease, same principle.
.
In the end, I remember on some vehicle in the past bashing a chisel through the old filter and using that as a lever. Bit messy, but it worked.
Any thoughts on that?
.
I too found there was insufficient clearance between filter and manifold for my trusty chain wrench, so I ended up tapping the filter loose, using a hammer hammer and big screwdriver, on the filters bottom edge. I saw no mileage in hammering the screwy right thro, as it looked like it wouldn't have had room to spin round anyway.
Shifty1962
Well-Known Member
As long as it dont leak then its tight enough.
Surely they need space at the end of the filter? Turbo oil drain pipe runs about 1cm clear on mine . . . . .
Shifty1962
Well-Known Member
You wont be able to get it on the filter of a TD5 engine unless you remove the turbo oil drain pipe and the engine mount. Even then there may not be room to turn it. Get a strap wrench off eBay they are not expensive and have numerous uses.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Draper-Oil-Fu...tZUK_Hand_Tools_Equipment?hash=item230589769e
Attachments
ratty
I'm not special I'm limited edition
I can get my 3 leg filter wrench on my oil filter. I need to get the filter wrench in place first, and then fit the ratchet after. There isn't a lot of room to move the ratchet but it can be done. I can't get my chain wrench on the fecker though. One day I'll get myself a strap wrench.
Shifty1962
Well-Known Member
If you have an old 25mm ratchet strap and a knackered long reach socket that have seen better days you could make one yourself for pennies. I used to have a DIY one but sprung for the real thing when it eventually gave up the ghost. Probably because the oil rotted the webbing. It lasted about 10 years though so I've got no complaints.
ratty
I'm not special I'm limited edition
I have plenty of old webbing strap laying around so I might give it a go although I can't do the next service myself as I just took out an AA warranty on my landy so I have to use a VAT registered garage to service my landy as part of the conditions. Time to call in some favours from some local garages me thinks.
