Hi all

Wonder if someone can help with a brake set up challenge I’m having (sorry for the long post).

A bit of background, I’m rebuilding a late S2 109 on a new chassis, in part using bits from a knacked S2 88’’ (1969) I had lying around.
I’ve refurbed and used the bulkhead from the 88 which includes the pedal boxes and as part of the brake rebuild I ordered a new LWB master cylinder (non-servo) from paddocks listed as: LWB later S2A/3 Brake Master Cylinder - non servo SKU: 90569128.

However after fitting and bleeding I’m having problems setting up the brakes, they are binding. I’ve established its due to the adjustment of the pedal and master cylinder rod, it seems the rod was not fully disengaging from the master cylinder - i.e. there was no end float. The challenge is that the rod looks too long. I’ve backed off the adjuster bolt as far as it will go but I still can’t feel much play in the rod that, as I understand it, is needed to ensure the brakes don’t bind.

I did wonder if I ordered the wrong master cylinder as paddock has two listed for non-servo LWB S2s - the one I’ve fitted and another one with a large nut on the end (listed as: LWB S11/early 11A Brake Master Cylinder (large nut on rear) SKU: 564706)

I’ve had a look at the parts manual but can’t seem to find reference to which one should be used.

Anyone know if I the one with the nut on has a shorter rod / is the one I should be using.

I did think about fitting a shim between the pedal box and master cylinder to move the rod towards the bulkhead a little??

Also, when looking at the Haynes manual it describes adjusting the pedal height (and therefore master cylinder rod end float) using a bolt on the front of the pedal box – the one fitted on my bulkhead doesn’t have a bolt, just a large hole to allow access to the nut that connects on to the master cylinder rod. It does have a ‘stop’ bolt on the front of the pedal itself (that operates the stop light switch). I’m assuming that this is used to adjust the pedal height (and therefore play on the rod)? Again can’t find any reference of another type of pedal box.

Anyone know if this ‘stop’ bolt (last photo) is the right way to adjust pedal height.

Thanks

Been a while since I had a Series 2 on the go. However the thing that caught my eye in your pic is the nut on the master rod. Two my eye it just looks bigger/thicker than an original one. A narrower one would allow the tad more free play you need I recon.
Often with old Landys it is a case of mix and match and making sure what you have works right.
I have a 1990 Ninety [mine from nearly new] all books say brake parts are metric [pipes ect] but mine is imperial! So I have to use Series parts.

You could fit a spacer between master and pedal box but I wouldn't bother. I would suggest removing the pushrod and getting a local machine shop to extend the thread. 5/16UNF is the thread size.
How high is the brake pedal from the floor? I can't remember the correct dimension but I'm sure someone else here can assist with that. You have fitted the better master cylinder, as the older model with the nut on the end can be awkward to bleed/get a good pedal.