HuN73R

HuN73R

New Member
Alright guys.

I know this is a bit of a repeat of my last thread. But I have a disco 200tdi in my defender, so this is probly the best place for it.


Anyway. My cambelt has snapped. Im trying to fit a new one. I have a haynes manual but that shows the diagram of a 300tdi. Looks different to mine!

I can see where to line the crank sproket up (big old arrow on the case!)

I think ive got the right mark to line the cam sproket (a peice of the case which extrudes from the bolt hole and points at the sproket.)

Also I have used a 9mm drill bit to find the locator hole in the fuel pump sproket. I think i have found the hole (something I often struggle with) But even with the 9mm drill inserted the sproket still moves enough to be on a different tooth. I assume it has got to be bang on, but how can it be if the fooker moves with the locator pin inserted??

Any advice??

Thanks in advance!!
 
Thanks Trewy. But I have got that link from the previous thread. However this guide shows arrows to line up the crank sproket and the fuel sproket, but mine does not have these arrows.

This is what I cant understand. I am hoping someone has had to do it on a disco 200tdi cus it seems to be a little different.

I have a mate comming round tonight to have a look for me. If we cant make anymore sense I will post some pics later.

thanks again!
 
Had a look.
I've got the 300TDi Disco Workshop manual, but not the 200TDi. :mad:
 
Lol - I have the Disco one on CD but it will not work on windows vista, and all of my computers are Vista! :mad:
 
It seems to be slightly different on my disco to the pics I have seen for the defender.

all the defender pics show arrows on the case for all three sprokets.

Mine has an arrow on the crank sproket but no arrows on the crank or fuel sproket.

I need to take a photo to explain where i think the crank sproket should line up.

I have used a 9mm drill bit as the locator pin for the fuel pump sproket. But even with the pin in the sproket it still turns enough to move from one tooth to another??

This is what I am most unsure about!
 
bill_gj said:
I've just been going through this, see:

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/200-tdi-timing-belts-62608.html

There's differences between Defender and Dico 200TDi's in the timing department.
Also - use a 3/8" or 9.5mm drill in the pump locking/timing hole - it's the right fit.
Click to expand...


Sorry bill your right!! I was told to use a 9mm drill in the defender guide. But I did find that the 9.5mm was a tighter fit, but there is still some movement in it!

I can only guess that i line it up as central as possible and slap the belt on. But I dont feel 100% confident!
 
Well I got a mate who knows what he is doing (unlike me!) to come round and help me tourque up the belt and re-fit the head. He seemed to think we are good to go! When fitting the belt I have just tried to keep the locator pin as central as possible. I was going to fire it up the other night to check but when we were refitting the rocker arm we noticed some washer/spacers missing between the rockers, so now im waiting for a delivery before I can continue. Will keep you posted though. Fingers Crossed!!

Thanks for all the help guys!
 
Confident - Neither am I on my 200TDi - the 9.5 locked the FIP quite nicely, but I'm still fumbling about with the flywheel locator (via the bottom of the bell housing).

My cam wheel aligns with a marker on the ally housing OK. Probably won't be able to do any more until Saturday.
 
bill_gj said:
Confident - Neither am I on my 200TDi - the 9.5 locked the FIP quite nicely, but I'm still fumbling about with the flywheel locator (via the bottom of the bell housing).

My cam wheel aligns with a marker on the ally housing OK. Probably won't be able to do any more until Saturday.
Click to expand...


Bill,

What do you mean about the flywheel locator? Can you explain more?

I have used the locator pin on the FIP (all be it a bit sloppy). I have aligned the crankshaft with the arrow on the case OK. But the cam sproket I have aligned the small pip on one of the teeth with an extrusion on the case that comes out from the bolt hole on the case and points at the sproket. Is this the same on yours??
 
HuN73R - yes to all, I lined my job up like that, and then I read in someone's posting (either here on on one of the 'other' LR forums) that there's a hole in the bottom of the bellhousing and that there's a 'special tool' that goes in the hole and, as you rotate the engine, a groove or hole in the flywheel comes past and the special tool pops into it, giving a more accurate location that the arrow in the timing housing at the front.

I found the hole in the bellhousing OK, but as I work outside and it had started peeing with rain again, I got fed up and called it a day - haven't had the chance to do anymore.

Don't know if that helps. I was having a struggle to get the belt back on - seemed too tight - and I came to think it might have been because I didn't have the pulleys aligned well enough.
 
bill_gj said:
HuN73R - yes to all, I lined my job up like that, and then I read in someone's posting (either here on on one of the 'other' LR forums) that there's a hole in the bottom of the bellhousing and that there's a 'special tool' that goes in the hole and, as you rotate the engine, a groove or hole in the flywheel comes past and the special tool pops into it, giving a more accurate location that the arrow in the timing housing at the front.

I found the hole in the bellhousing OK, but as I work outside and it had started peeing with rain again, I got fed up and called it a day - haven't had the chance to do anymore.

Don't know if that helps. I was having a struggle to get the belt back on - seemed too tight - and I came to think it might have been because I didn't have the pulleys aligned well enough.
Click to expand...

Err... did yer belt break or are you doing a simple belt replacement. If it's just a belt replacement then don't mess about with the crank/flywheel/cam unless yer seriously unhappy with the performance of the engine - just lock the IP and don't move the crank or cam while you replace the belt - mark 'em to be safe but keep their positions as they were.

If it's a busted belt then the crank will have moved relative to the cam and IP anyway so you can ignore the above ;)

Cheers,
 
bill_gj said:
HuN73R - yes to all, I lined my job up like that, and then I read in someone's posting (either here on on one of the 'other' LR forums) that there's a hole in the bottom of the bellhousing and that there's a 'special tool' that goes in the hole and, as you rotate the engine, a groove or hole in the flywheel comes past and the special tool pops into it, giving a more accurate location that the arrow in the timing housing at the front.

I found the hole in the bellhousing OK, but as I work outside and it had started peeing with rain again, I got fed up and called it a day - haven't had the chance to do anymore.

Don't know if that helps. I was having a struggle to get the belt back on - seemed too tight - and I came to think it might have been because I didn't have the pulleys aligned well enough.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info bill!
 
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