trax99

trax99

Well-Known Member
I've got a bit of play on the drivers front wheel, play disappears when the brakes are pressed, so I assumed it was knackered bearings, so off I went and changed them for a set of timkins, but on putting back together it still wobbles about.
what do people think, my money on the stub axle, but it looks ok.
 
you can all type faster than me.

as for setting the bearings
I reassembled the hub as per
torqued up the nut to 65Nm
backed it off till slack then tightened up to just over finger tight.
same as I always do.
there is no play on the swivel bearings ( fortunately).
 
its just removing the free play that is important ,inner seal can make it feel like you have as a greater resistance is felt but bearings arent
 
Yoiu said that the wheel 'wobbles'.

Is that top and bottom or side to side?

Top and bottom generally indicates that there is play in the top ball swivel pin.

Side to side could indicate track rod adjustment/replacement may be needed.

All round play would suggest that your wheel bearings are not set up correctly.
 
Did anyone get to the end with this? I too have play on my drivers front (top to bottom) I've adjusted the bearing correctly but still play. I also get an awful click./clunk over speed bumps/ normal bumps if I hit them too hard.

There's no leakage or dampness. Car the swivel pins be adjusted/replaced to take up the slack? Or do I need to replace the swivel ball too?
Thanks
 
Stickystuff said:
Did anyone get to the end with this? I too have play on my drivers front (top to bottom) I've adjusted the bearing correctly but still play. I also get an awful click./clunk over speed bumps/ normal bumps if I hit them too hard.

There's no leakage or dampness. Car the swivel pins be adjusted/replaced to take up the slack? Or do I need to replace the swivel ball too?
Thanks
Click to expand...

Doubt very much it's the pins, it's more likely to be the swivel bearings, the ball would only need replacing if it were pitted and leaking from around the seals.

If it were the bearing on the stub axle there would be play at top and bottom and at three and nine o'clock positions.

Hope this helps..
 
If you are getting top and bottom movement, remove the two bolts from the top of the swivel pin (it has a braket on which holds the brake pipe) then remove the pin.

You should find a number of shimms between it and the housing.

Remove a couple of them and put it aall back together again but without the brake pipe bracket.

Check the resistance as you turn the hub ... mine is around 14lbs measured with a kitchen pull scale.

You might have to play around swapping the shimms to achieve this .... then stick everything back toether including the brake braket and your clunk should have gone. :D
 
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