oilcan7

New Member
Hi,new member here, I already have a small collection of 5 classic cars ranging from 1938 to 2006, but currently no land rover. Most of my cars have been purchased because the opportunity arose, not as part of any plan, and I have seen a range rover that I really like the look of.

It's a 1989 vogue with the 3.5 litre engine just prior to the introduction of the 3.9, so what should I be looking out for before buying it? I have no experience yet with Land rovers apart from some previous discovery ownership, and while I would do all mechanical work myself any bodywork or electrickery issues would have be done by a specialist, so its more the bodywork and electrical side that i am concerned about. Poking around on the net I understand that there were corrosion problems caused by low quality steel introduced at around this this time, is there any way to know, via chassis number or whatever if the object of my desire might suffer from this? Or anything else come to that.
 
All the under panels are steel as are the bonnet & both tailgates.
The newest one is going to be over 20 years old & your 1989 nearly 30 years of exposure to UK road conditions. Not well rustproofed/undersealed from new so well exposed.
Mine's a 1986, I've owned it since 1994 & have done a fair amount of welding incl areas of both front floors, parts on inner wings & bits on front panel, much of both sills, rear wheel arches (seat belt mounts are well known) areas of both sides of boot floor (centre section on mine is ally).
Replaced the top tailgate with an ally one.
TBH if I couldn't weld & have my own kit it would have gone a long time ago.
You will need to thoroughly inspect your intended & if you don't know what you're looking for get someone who does to look it over.
 
Another thought is any welding repairs it may have had in its life & how good/bad they are.
Ideally the rotten bit would be cut out & new let in, but plating over rust is common & all that does is allow the rust easy access to the new metal.
There was a pic on one of the LR forums that showed IIRC a Disco 1 that had something like 5 layers of plate on the same area.
 
+ 1 tp what you've been advised, corrosion is the Classic's worst enemy & your comments re. the steel quality are justified - RR's of that period were constructed using the same metal as the newly introduced Disco & we all know how quickly they turned into rust-buckets.
Buy carefully, pay what you need to for an good V8 (originals are like rocking horse droppings, so go for restored with photos) you will never regret it & looked after it can only appreciate in value.
I owned my current '87 Vouge for nearly 10 years & although I don't drive it often (2k a year) it puts a smile on my face every trip. Take it to a classic car show & the chances are yours will be the only one there.
 
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im restoring an 86/87 its engine has done 200.000 it has been looked after its a great engine. just goes to show they can run for along time if oil and filters are changed often.
 
The V8 will do huge mileages & will continue to run quite happily even with very worn components esp camshaft & cam followers, timing chain & chain sprockets.
Did the top end & front covers on mine last year.
I don't know what mileage the engine actually had but I know it wasn't the original & I've done around 100k.
Bores were in excellent condition
Surprising how much crud there was in the rocker arms & shafts so worth stripping them & poking things into the passageways on the arms before a good blast of carb cleaner or thinners. Used a piece of dowel to put the bits on as I removed them so all went back into their original positions.
Timing chain & its sprockets were well worn as were the cam & followers although no significant noise.
The crank pulley oil seal had a couple of small cracks & the valley seals were so hard I could snap them.
Has done a lot of miles on LPG & the valves & seats were in very good condition with just a quick dose of grinding paste by hand to clean them up. One valve had worn to a knife edge & was replaced.
Replaced all hoses - with genuine when I could get them - as the old ones were...old & showing it!
 
Changed the fuel hoses as well.
The injector end of the hose is just pushed onto the injector, the cupped washer at the bottom doesn't grip it & isn't crimped onto it.
I didn't cut the old hose off to avoid scratching the ribs. Used a soldering iron with thin pointed end to melt into the hoses.
Proper screw clamp fuel hose clips at the rail end.
Best to pressure test for any leaks before refitting plenum etc & on the flapper that's easily done by turning the ignition on & pushing the flap open with a finger which causes the fuel pump to run.

The hose is 5/16 and use proper EFI rated hose. A local fuel injection specialist company tried to sell me a length of the fabric covered unreinforced variety as 'we use it all the time'. This despite a check of the code markings on it resulting in 'Must not be used on fuel injection systems'!
 
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boot floor (centre section on mine is ally).
Replaced the top tailgate with an ally one.
QUOTE]

That info. is interesting, mine was built in June '87 & I had read somewhere that the earlier floors were alloy riveted to the chassis rails (?) in which case I assume the easiest way to replace the fuel pump would be to drill the heads off the rivets & remove the floor, seeing as there's no access hole :(
What did you think of the alloy tailgate, I have read that they tend to flex compared with the originals & although I believe mine to be original odds are it won't last forever.
Thanks in advance.
 
ill be dead and dust by the time my tailgate rots. i have mine in bits as we speak. tailgates in kitchen. scuttle pan is in my workshop being rubbed down. back floor is ali rivets drilled so i can check fuel pump as i think its on its way out. so getting a new on before the floor goes back in. got all new lights collected over the years new bumpers and coners. i just need a good bonet now.
 
Not sure when the changeover from the ally riveted floor to the steel one was
The outer part of the floor is steel, it's just the centre section that's alloy, roughly the same size as the ribbed bit on the steel floored ones.
The edge of the steel bits has a lip pressed into it & the alloy sits in & is riveted to it with some rivets at the front & rear.
I have cut a hole to do the fuel pump as drilling all the rivets out & then dealing with the sealant was a PITA when I did the welding I mentioned earlier.

The upper tailgate I did with one of the kits from Famous Four using my existing glass. Cut the old steel one to release the glass, just be very careful you don't damage the glass.
I'd heard about the bending issue with ally tailgates before I bought it & I close by pressing simultaneously on both bottom corners & have had no issues.
 
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Thanks for that info. Ratae, yes the closing by pressing the bottom corners is something I practice on my (steel) one.
Hopefully I won't have to change the pump as the car has only done 56k from new, but just in case I have a genuine unit (complete with gaskets) in a sealed box that I would carry should I ever take the car away on holiday ... if the pump failed on a day trip I'd just come home on a recovery truck, 'oh the ignominy :(
 

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