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ldrego

Active Member

• Sep 10, 2015

• #1

So I have replaced the injector seals and the copper washers. The first time, the injector seal on one of them was placed incorrectly resulting in all the diesel flooding the oil. It was corrected using the same copper seals. It still leaked so I then did it again using new copper seals and again it still leaked. Is there anything else that I may have missed? I just want to cover all bases before taking this head of for a repair new one. The car otherwise drives just well.

Thanks all.

 

johnlad

Well-Known Member

• Sep 10, 2015

• #2

Did you use genuine Land Rover seals and washers

 

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ldrego

Active Member

• Sep 19, 2015

• #3

Well the second time I used the same rubber o rings that I had purchased from land rover but some ebay bearmach copper o rings. It leaked again. I am wondering if I should have bought a whole set of new o rings and copper washers from land rover?

 

markomate2

Well-Known Member

• Sep 19, 2015

• #4

Can you see where the leak is?

I thought my seals had gone, replaced twice before I saw fuel weeping from the side of No1 injector pocket, the pocket had cracked.
Its almost impossible to see the crack without taking the injector out.
No1 seems to be the most common one for cracking.
Google, TD5 head repair on ebay or take a look at mt TD5 stripdown thread in the TD5 section.
Mark

 

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ldrego

Active Member

• Sep 19, 2015

• #5

How did you ge the fuel to weep out. Did you keep the injectors in and do the prime thing?

 

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ldrego

Active Member

• Sep 19, 2015

• #6

Mark was your head a p15 or p10?
I heard that the P15 doesn't suffer as much from the crack thing.

 

markomate2

Well-Known Member

• Sep 20, 2015

• #7

Hi
Mine is a P15 head or 15P!
They dont seem to crack in the same place as the 10P, but they do crack at the injector pocket, usually number 1.
Yes keep the injectors in place.
Remove the cam cover.
If you can, remove as much of the oil/fuel mix from the various "wells" on the head, it will make it easier to see a leak.
Turn ignition on, wait a few mins until its done a full purge. Leave ignition on.
With a good torch, very closely look at the area around the injector pockets.
Really take your time.
The fuel will appear to weep through the metal and slowly pool in the little wells on the head before working its way backwards and then drop down to the sump.
The head repair, if its cracked will be about £200 incl carriage. Add another £150 ish for bits from Turners, plus more oil!
Mark

 

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ldrego

Active Member

• Sep 28, 2015

• #8

Thanks for that mark. I have not had time as yet to do that but I have noticed that the car is harder to start when it is on the last quarter tank. There is also a burning smell of oil in the fumes. Is it possible that the injectors have failed and that one of them is slightly open leading to a diesel in the oil and oil in the fuel tank too?

 

markomate2

Well-Known Member

• Sep 28, 2015

• #9

Hi. is your exhaust smoky? What colour is it? If its white, acrid smoke its a good chance its fuel.
This may indicate a bad injector.
Be really careful about driving it any more, before you get it checked. You could burnout a piston.
Mark

 

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ldrego

Active Member

• Sep 28, 2015

• #10

The thing is I can't really see smoke but it does smell of burning oil. It also only seems to stutter and struggle on starting when the fuel is about a quarter tank. I have a lynx diagnostic kit. Is there anything in there that could help with diagnosing the problem?