wammers · Sep 28, 2015

EntropyUK said:
Cheers Grrrrr, carpet is untouched so have decided to drop the tank. Already took the wheel arch liner out and have been soaking bolts in PlusGas ready for the weekend. Tank filler pipe into the tank looks clean and jubilee clip seems good to go. Only need to look at breather pies over the next couple of days.

Did you put your rear wheels on ramps when you did yours? Only issue I have seen is that the 3 bolt end of the tank strap has the middle bolt sheared off.

You need to support and partially drop the tank at the front leave it on the long stud at the rear. Then reach in and disconnect the vent pipes and electrics. Fuel pipes come out with tank they need to be disconnected from the two push connectors one red one blue just forward on the tank at N/S.

Grrrrrr · Sep 29, 2015

The tank is reasonably high so you need the back of the car lifted high. I used axle stands on highest setting but only just squeezed the tank between. A second jack helps. The tank is very light once empty.

EntropyUK · Sep 29, 2015

One last question, is it OK to run the pump test with the new pump when its out of the tank (pull relay and run +ve to No. 5 contact). Don't want to put it all back together to find that its a wiring fault.

Saint.V8 · Sep 29, 2015

Why not just use a multimeter to check voltage and/or wiring continuity?

wammers · Sep 29, 2015

EntropyUK said:
One last question, is it OK to run the pump test with the new pump when its out of the tank (pull relay and run +ve to No. 5 contact). Don't want to put it all back together to find that its a wiring fault.

Don't run the pump dry.

wammers

No longer with us, RIP

Grrrrrr

Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd

EntropyUK

Well-Known Member

Saint.V8

Dyed-in-the-wool 100% RR Junkie

wammers

No longer with us, RIP

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