Pug957

Member
Hi guys

Drove 200 miles last night, parked up and came out to it this morning and it's a non starter.

Couldn't turn key in ignition. Thought steering lock so tried the fuse 18 trick, no joy.

Accessed the lock, removed the plate, wd40 and tap, no joy.

Got ignition switch out, removed solenoid unit from the barrel so I can at least turn the key, no joy. Ignition comes on but no crank.

No fault codes stored and battery is good, only 1 month old and good charge.

Any suggestions?
 
Hi guys

Drove 200 miles last night, parked up and came out to it this morning and it's a non starter.

Couldn't turn key in ignition. Thought steering lock so tried the fuse 18 trick, no joy.

Accessed the lock, removed the plate, wd40 and tap, no joy.

Got ignition switch out, removed solenoid unit from the barrel so I can at least turn the key, no joy. Ignition comes on but no crank.

No fault codes stored and battery is good, only 1 month old and good charge.

Any suggestions?
Contact failure is not unknown.
 
Been playing a lot lot more but still no idea.

Voltage at the switch appears to be correct so pretty happy that's OK.

Put everything back together and still can't turn the key. It's looking like the immobiliser isn't being turned off, ie not reading the key. Reading data off the steering lock module it's says the key information is invalid.

Picking up a new genuine coil for the ignition switch tomorrow morning so hopefully it's that simple.

Only thing that concerns me now is there seems to be a code stored in the immobiliser ecu that it can't communicate with the instrument cluster but that may just be a nuisance code at this point.
 
Have you tried the battery disconnect for half hour reset procedure. And shorting the terminals together (NOT BATTERY TERMINALS) to drain residual power from the ECU's?
 
Battery was off for about an hour and tried shorting the leads as well. Did that as I was pulling the steering column out.
 
I suspect the "disconnect battery and short ECU 12V & ground together" method is completely irrelavent on modern cars. It generally comes from old pre-OBD ECU with volatile memory.

But it gives you something to do while waiting for recovery !!
 
I suspect the "disconnect battery and short ECU 12V & ground together" method is completely irrelavent on modern cars. It generally comes from old pre-OBD ECU with volatile memory.

But it gives you something to do while waiting for recovery !!
Removing power from the ECU's in the case of any that always have power will force a restart.
 
Pretty much abandoned for now, will try the coil in the morning and if that fails steal a family members car for the weekend and get the AA to drag it home Monday if they will.
 

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