Zoe Pitters
Member
Can some one please show me what and where the micro switch wires in the lock of 1999 range still can't get eka code to work and I'm ready to lose the plot lol merry Christmas xx
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
This may help its a test sheet put together by Martyuk
Your micro switches are inside the door lock mechanism!! There will be a multi pin plug connected to it. They can be refurbished by martyuk if I'm correct people??
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
martyuk
Well-Known Member
I'm back from work now... but not at home yet... back properly from about the 5th January.
That being said I am actually around London at the moment and have to go to Chelmsford for work in the afternoon. Whilst I don't have any door latches on me, I do have my Nanocom, so can potentially swing by and check the latch/enter the EKA using that.
If you then want a refurbished latch, then I can look at sorting one out when I am home and then send one down.
That being said I am actually around London at the moment and have to go to Chelmsford for work in the afternoon. Whilst I don't have any door latches on me, I do have my Nanocom, so can potentially swing by and check the latch/enter the EKA using that.
If you then want a refurbished latch, then I can look at sorting one out when I am home and then send one down.
Zoe Pitters
Member
Hey hun thanks for the reply I'm in Harold hill near romford 07565448807 actually cleaned switch and got code to work then I stopped and got locked out again lol now code won' work. Could you give me a ring when ever your free or any where near my sides thanks so much
martyuk
Well-Known Member
No problem - I'll give you a call tomorrow... I possibly have another P38 to look at out your way aswell tomorrow now.. and work in the afternoon. If I can't get to you before I head to work, then I will give you a call and try to swing past when I'm finished on the way home.
Cheers,
Martin
Cheers,
Martin
gold rover
Well-Known Member
@Zoe Pitters If @martyuk now has your phone number tucked safely in his phone, I suggest you remove it before you get more crap sales calls than you know what to do with.
Zoe Pitters
Member
Thank you so much x
Zoe Pitters
Member
So I managed to get the code to work after cleaning the switches yaaay then went to the garage and got locked out again lol it's now personal thanks for all your help xxx
Zoe go back to your post and edit your number!!!!
Tip that may help. If you go to fill up DO NOT leave the keys in the ignition.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Have you checked the white block connectors behind the kick panels at the base of the A posts ? They are prone to corrosion and will cause problems as you describe. I had to cut mine out and solder the wires together.
Zoe, there's a full guide from @martyuk on here somewhere. I've attached it (I think).
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
martyuk
Well-Known Member
It's all somewhat sorted.
The key fob itself is a bit worn, the casing feels like it splits a bit when you turn the key in the door/ignition. So it feels like to me that it could be possible that the battery connection could come loose, causing the key to lose sync.
Also, the passive immobiliser was turned on - so from that if the key fob loses sync and it then immobilises automatically, it would need the EKA every time to start.
The battery was pretty flat too - and there has been some bodging (I presume by a previous owner) of the battery cables as the battery in there is a) too small and b) the terminals are on the wrong sides, so the +ve has been extended. Both battery clamps were pretty loose.
So, hooked Nanocom up, entered EKA via the 'disarm' option (BECM was V37) and then turned off the passive immobiliser, so it now won't self immobilise itself.
Hooked it up to my RR with the jumper cables and let it charge up for 10mins or so, then tried it, and it turned over and started.
Recommendation when I left was to get a MF31-1000 battery, as it's the biggest that will fit in the battery tray, and the battery terminals are the correct orientation, so the random battery terminal extension can be removed and the terminals fitted and tightened up properly.
Whilst I had the Nanocom connected, I tested the inputs to the BECM from the drivers door latch, and all the microswitched appear to be working as they should.
When pressing the fob, the light does flash, so I would also suggest that the fob is re-cased to a more robust one, and then hopefully it will sync back up properly, and work as it should.
I've left the EKA enabled, because as much as a PITA it is, you never know when it will be useful!
The key fob itself is a bit worn, the casing feels like it splits a bit when you turn the key in the door/ignition. So it feels like to me that it could be possible that the battery connection could come loose, causing the key to lose sync.
Also, the passive immobiliser was turned on - so from that if the key fob loses sync and it then immobilises automatically, it would need the EKA every time to start.
The battery was pretty flat too - and there has been some bodging (I presume by a previous owner) of the battery cables as the battery in there is a) too small and b) the terminals are on the wrong sides, so the +ve has been extended. Both battery clamps were pretty loose.
So, hooked Nanocom up, entered EKA via the 'disarm' option (BECM was V37) and then turned off the passive immobiliser, so it now won't self immobilise itself.
Hooked it up to my RR with the jumper cables and let it charge up for 10mins or so, then tried it, and it turned over and started.
Recommendation when I left was to get a MF31-1000 battery, as it's the biggest that will fit in the battery tray, and the battery terminals are the correct orientation, so the random battery terminal extension can be removed and the terminals fitted and tightened up properly.
Whilst I had the Nanocom connected, I tested the inputs to the BECM from the drivers door latch, and all the microswitched appear to be working as they should.
When pressing the fob, the light does flash, so I would also suggest that the fob is re-cased to a more robust one, and then hopefully it will sync back up properly, and work as it should.
I've left the EKA enabled, because as much as a PITA it is, you never know when it will be useful!
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
well done that man.
Grrrrrr
Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
@Zoe Pitters If @martyuk now has your phone number tucked safely in his phone, I suggest you remove it before you get more crap sales calls than you know what to do with.
Quite so. Always start a "conversation" with a member for anything containing personal details. "Conversation", FFS. What was wrong with the old Private Message that did what it said?!
