Not sure if anyone has had a go at changing one of these little buggers, but unless you have flexible arms that can dislocate, trying to test it proved to be a major ass ache
But change it I did, after reading my 'trustworthy' Haynes manual, with its extremely vague description of its location, I found it and changed it. For anyone that is interested, if you remove the front nearside wheel, and the associated engine splashguard (3 bolts), you will see the switch and lead, at the back of the gearbox, not the top as described, but sort of middle........... if you get my drift!! Just wish the manual was more accurate. A little oil does come out when the switch is removed, but not great shakes, and fairly easy to top back up, if you have a long enough flexible hose on your bottle of gear oil.
And if someone has posted this before.......... I couldn't find it, so there!! :lalala:

Well, I changed the switch, the new one works a treat. It was certainly easier to replace than to test!!

I found removing the side splash gaurd was enough, and didn't have to remove the road wheel. Although the job was done by 'feel' and not 'see'. I was advised to select reverse gear before unscrewing the old switch, as this reduces the chances of parts from the failed switch dropping into the gearbox. (Mine came out intact anyway)

The most painfull part, was paying for the switch. Compared to a K or L series part...

I know, ridiculous isn't it? a tenner for one type,forty-odd for the other, and they are just switches, nothing else. Maybe because they fail more often with that particular gearbox, so a bit of advantage taking?