O

OthedriverO

New Member
Hello, my 2.5 auto 1997 range rover p38 has the worse problem ever when warm... if i boot it to make it drop a gear it will redline then wont change up it just stop then if i take my foot off the gas and then back on it will change gear and do the same so its ok when traveling normally but if i need a bit more speed say to over take someone this is a massive problem... i have no idea what it could be PLEASE help....
 
Have you checked the oil level? Follow the proceedure in RAVe to check the oil level.
Flairing on shifts is a common problem, could be sticky valve block or a worn clutch. the colour of the oil will give a clue, if it's dark or black it will be a clutch pack failure, if it's cherry red, likely it's a sticky valve block.
If the oil colour is good, change the oil and filter, then add Lucas Transmission Fix, it sorted the problem on mine.
 
Agree with Datatek - level, oil and filter before anything else. If the vehicle's been used a lot for towing or driven hard - especially over long periods, the oil can overheat beyond it's operating window. When this happens it loses it's properties and can get sticky or creates a lacquer like layer of varnish on internal surfaces. Some of the passages and valves etc are quite fine tolerance in auto boxes and can be sensitive to oil before it even starts to change colour. Ultimately it will turn brown, but by then clutch wear, more heat and degradation will probably mean a bigger bill! A bit of oil and perhaps even a filter every 50K is well worth IMHO...
 
Rob4x40 said:
Agree with Datatek - level, oil and filter before anything else. If the vehicle's been used a lot for towing or driven hard - especially over long periods, the oil can overheat beyond it's operating window. When this happens it loses it's properties and can get sticky or creates a lacquer like layer of varnish on internal surfaces. Some of the passages and valves etc are quite fine tolerance in auto boxes and can be sensitive to oil before it even starts to change colour. Ultimately it will turn brown, but by then clutch wear, more heat and degradation will probably mean a bigger bill! A bit of oil and perhaps even a filter every 50K is well worth IMHO...
Click to expand...
Oil and filter is supposed to be changed very 24K miles according to my schedule.
 
OthedriverO said:
Hello, my 2.5 auto 1997 range rover p38 has the worse problem ever when warm... if i boot it to make it drop a gear it will redline then wont change up it just stop then if i take my foot off the gas and then back on it will change gear and do the same so its ok when traveling normally but if i need a bit more speed say to over take someone this is a massive problem... i have no idea what it could be PLEASE help....
Click to expand...
Just to profer an opine....doesn't the kick down shift pattern when you press the accelerator pedal past the detent and hold it there, drop a cog or two (depending on speed) and then hold that gear until you release pedal pressure and return back past the detent position when it allows the next upshift??
 
Saint.V8 said:
Just to profer an opine....doesn't the kick down shift pattern when you press the accelerator pedal past the detent and hold it there, drop a cog or two (depending on speed) and then hold that gear until you release pedal pressure and return back past the detent position when it allows the next upshift??
Click to expand...

No, WoT if you reach a pre-programmed engine speed it'll still shift up. Only way to hold it in a gear is with the selector. I think it is around 4,500rpm in sport mode.
 
I'm sure it should still change up at the redline when you've got the kick down switch activated. Every auto I've driven has behaved like that.
 
Datatek said:
Oil and filter is supposed to be changed very 24K miles according to my schedule.
Click to expand...

Exactly - but how many do I wonder? From what I've seen, most self-serviced motors of 10+ years gearbox oil is never touched except perhaps to check level. They reckon modern gearbox oils are good for 100K, but in my experience oil is the biggest cause of gearbox problems. Being a skinflint, most of my vehicles have been purchased under £2K and with mileage of 100K+ :eek:
 
Ok so I've checked the oil level it's fine and the colour a bit dark ill post pictures when I'm home is it easy DIY job for gearbox and filter or if goes to a garage is it a pricey job.. And if the clutch pack failed then I take it best to flog the car be cause its a load of cash for new box or recon box
 
Have a look at your transfer box ecu, can be accessed from the back of the passenger seat under the vent and carpet. I had a similar issue (although on a petrol model so no idea if the same thing will happen on a diesel) and after opening up my transfer box ecu found it was burned. Once replaced it kicked down fine and didn't stick in one gear until I released the pedal.

So just take it out and open it up and check the condition of the insides.
 
No but I believe theres different models for petrol and diesel.

But if you haven't looked inside I would start by doing that, if its not burned inside and switching to low ratio works then it's more than likely not the transfer box ecu I would say.

Also keep in mind that if it is burned inside it's possible that your transfer box motor is siezed which could cause a new one to burn out if that isn't fixed.
 
OthedriverO said:
Ok so I've checked the oil level it's fine and the colour a bit dark ill post pictures when I'm home is it easy DIY job for gearbox and filter or if goes to a garage is it a pricey job.. And if the clutch pack failed then I take it best to flog the car be cause its a load of cash for new box or recon box
Click to expand...
About £800 for a recon box, maybe less to fix your. Oil and filter change easy if you have a dip stick, need an oil pump of some sort if no dip stick I use a garden sprayer with the lance removed.
 
OthedriverO said:
With the ecu does it need to be coded to the car.. Ecu as in the transfer ecu
Click to expand...
Petrol, diesel, auto & manual gearbox transfer boxe ECU's are all different I believe so you would need the right one. As jacck say's, look inside yours first.
 
Last edited:
Aren't they different for 4.0 and 4.6 too because of the different gearbox?
 
Datatek said:
Petrol, diesel, auto & manual gearbox transfer boxes are all different I believe so you would need the right one. As jacck say's, look inside yours first.
Click to expand...

splines in epicyclic are the only variant between diesel and petrol t/boxes can be swapped but needs splitting to do it
 
Ok I've took the ecu out of the car and its not burnt tbh it looks like its been changed.. I've owned the car 2 months.. When I disconnected it it been to drive better although it wouldn't kick down it was a lot better.. I'm not sure what it is but it's driving me mad live in a area with a lot of horses and bike riders do kick down comes in handy... Some one told me to code find (fault find) using a piece of wire ad the socket by bridging two pins believe 15&18 it would bring codes up on the dash.. When I got the car I know there was no codes and have a print out from land rover dealer... Thanks you for all your help guys I was told not to get a range rover as they crap but its the beat motor I've ever had and you guys are so helpful
 
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