Datatek said:
I would use wade height, be careful not to let the axle hang with the shock off or you will knacker the height sensor or you could disconnect the height sensor.
Click to expand...

Very good advice Keith, many do then wonder why the EAS goes tits up. ;)
 
Thanks for that I've I got it at wade height will I still be able to jack up the axle a bit to lift the shock out of the bottom cup
 
Oh ok glad you said that I was going to remove them all because I've not got replacements yet as I'm doing all the bushes and track pan rods at the same time and while I'm not working was going to start buying new bits when back to work I've I axle stand both sides would it be ok to remove both fronts
 
It will if you support it but like data said don’t let the axle hang, safer doing one moving onto next if it’s an option.
 
Thanks for help another question before I throw old back brake discs how do you know when there shot or can be cleaned and re used cheers
 
The cost of skimming the discs makes it a bit of a waste of time tbh ie you may as well start thinking about new. As soon as you're seeing a lip of a couple of mm in the discs (min 22mm front, 12mm rear)) then it's time to start thinking about replacing. If you let the disc wear the pistons come further and further out to engage the brakes, and then corrode, and then it will be a caliper refurb job on top of the disc change. Since it's so easy to change the discs on a RR (as long as the PO didn't torque the retaining screw!!) then it's best to stay on top of them
 
Thanks yer I'm going to replace them yer your right about then retaining screws 3 were knacked but got out eventually I'm replacing calipers anyway
 
pete12345 said:
Oh ok glad you said that I was going to remove them all because I've not got replacements yet as I'm doing all the bushes and track pan rods at the same time and while I'm not working was going to start buying new bits when back to work I've I axle stand both sides would it be ok to remove both fronts
Click to expand...

Keep the nuts. You might need tgem for the new ones. Better to replace them but you never know.

Dead easy job.
 
If the new ones don't come with nuts then pay attention to the thread pitch ie fine or coarse. I've mainly seen M12 fine on my Def & RR - but a typical m12 nyloc from the bottom of your parts bin will be coarse. Just in case - don't want you to trash your new dampers...
 
When you fit the shocks make sure you fit them correctly. Fronts are longer than rears other way round will give big problems.
 
Cheers I won't be able to make that mistake because I'm only ordering one set at a time because of no work at present so hopefully even I can't mess that bit up
 
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