Hi all,

The misses bag of bones has died first major problem since owning it for over 2 years, anyway.

Now and again the car would just cut out and after a few Mins it starts again but last week misses called well I should say woke me cos it was 6 in the morning saying "been sat trying to start car for over 20 Mins" but eventually it started and she said F4 was flashing on dash.

Yesterday pulled out of garage 5ft and it died on us and for love or money it will not start but the F4 is on the dash again and I think the HDC lights showed up.

Ran battery flat trying to start it, turns over but not firing at all.

Red a few posts about the F4 error and checked plugs behind headlight, sprayed them and they look ok, not plug a code reader in cos I don't have one.

Any suggestions cos I don't want to put it into a garage cos reading other peeps posts its going to cost £1500 plus to fix.

Petrol, can and match comes to mind

Help.

Brian

Ps, anyone near Caerphilly able to have a look at it.

PPS, Charged battery over night and tried to start it again on a full battery and no go, but battery will only last a few turns of the key and goes flat, charging it again as I type.

Just had the AA out and he had a look and got it started. He sprayed start spray into the manifold and it tried to start, he checked to see if the fuel pump was going and it was.

And then he tapped the fuel cut off switch (I didn't know one was fitted) and it started. Asked if it was the cut off switch and he said I dough it because the fuel pump was running and he said that it could be the start spray that got it going.

We didn't see any heater plug sign on the dash and he put a amp meter on the battery and turned the key and he thinks the glow plugs need a looking at as its not pulling the correct amount of amps, he said it should pull at least 20amps per plug and its only pulling 20 amps on key turn not more.

Any ideas?

Just found this post HERE

a common fault with poor cold starting is the injectors leaking back fuel.

The td4 needs pressure to be equal in all 4 injectors before allowing the engine to start. If one leaks back, it gives a low pressure reading and it fails to sart.

One way to test is to spray easy start into the air intake. If it then starts and runs okay, chances are it's a leaky injector.

You can get a garage to do the leak back or leak off test for you, or, if you do a search on here using the search pull down (not the google search box) you can do it yourself with 4 empty coke bottles, a piece of timber to fix them to, and some fuel pipe.

good luck.

Click to expand...

If you aren't going t do the leak back test yourself then I can recommend these people City Electro Diesel in Cardiff

Thanks Richard.

Regards

Wow, I was just going to suggest injector fault, and then I found that you'd found one of my posts about it.

10/10 for searching and finding.

the F4 fault and HDC fault are unrelated to the non-start problem, and probably not related to each other.

Your freelander must be the auto as F4 is an auto gearbox fault, means it's in limp home mode to protect the gearbox. Wouldn't have said the plugs were behind the headlight exactly, more on top of the gearbox, hippo has some info on this, with a good picture.

the HDC fault is only related to the HDC system, and should not affect the other two. could be brake pedal switch, abs sensors to name but two.

You'll need the codes read to find out whats wrong with the auto box, although it sometimes does clear itself.

truly, good luck.

I've put some injector cleaner in tank so see how that goes.

Thanks

Just purchased the iCarsoft i810 Car Diagnostic Scan Tool OBD2 OBDII CAN Code Reader CANBUS 069.

Soon find out if any codes are listed.

Regards

hi,
did you manage to resolve your issue. i have the exact same problem.
regards
mick