OK guys help please. 2011 Freelander ll TD4 2.2.
Driving through a town at under 20mph. Warm engine. Had covered approx 30 miles. Engine stops. No coughing, dying, no warning lights. Just cut out. Felt electrical. Would not restart. Cranking strongly.
109000 on the clock. Timing chain replaced at 70,000.
No Fault Codes showing.
Read through the posts here,
Thought immediately - Crank Sensor, so got it out, tested, it showed open circuit.. so ordered one, fitted, still no crank.
Filled with diesel. (Just in case)
Fuel pump next? Can't hear it. Should I hear it? What else to check please? Really cannot afford to take this to a workshop right now and need to try to fix myself..I'm an electrician but not a massively experienced mechanic although I do my brakes, servicing, even did a clutch on our other cart so can manage most stuff with guidance.
Some oddities I noticed in the run up to this which may or may not mean anything.......
Around 2 weeks prior the fuel gauge stuck on empty despite having 1/2 tank. Restarting engine sorted it and it didn't do it since.
Around 3 months ago I started the engine from warm and in drive the car would not pull forward. Not revving but just not going forward. A week later the same thing. Stop and restart and all was well. My wife usually drives the freelander and she never experienced this so we put it down to my big clumsy workboot not being on the accelerator properly. In any case we did a lot of miles since on holiday and it never repeated.
So, what is my next move please? TIA

If it were mine, I'd want to put a diagnostic on it to look for codes and run some PIDs.
These vehicles are very electrically complicated, so some form of electronic diagnostic is pretty much essential.
As for the crank sensor, was it an OE part?
There have been instances where none OE parts have thinner pins, that don't connect to the plug contacts ccorrectly. The plugs themselves can also suffer from contact spreading, requiring replacement contracts be fitted.

Nodge68 said:

If it were mine, I'd want to put a diagnostic on it to look for codes and run some PIDs.
These vehicles are very electrically complicated, so some form of electronic diagnostic is pretty much essential.
As for the crank sensor, was it an OE part?
There have been instances where none OE parts have thinner pins, that don't connect to the plug contacts ccorrectly. The plugs themselves can also suffer from contact spreading, requiring replacement contracts be fitted.

Click to expand...

Thank you. Yes it was an OEM part. I've had to send for a new diagnostic tool as cannot find mine since moving house . Meantime I THINK the problem is the fuel transfer pump. (The gauge was just above quarter when it happened). I put 20l in the tank, bled the fuel filter at the engine fuel pump and she started! Going to fill it up before proceeding. It's got to be that hasn't it? Now reading on here and other forums about how to change the transfer pump. Some say tank has to come out, some say its possible to change it via an access hatch in the floor under the rear seats. Need to test it for power but not today. 41° here!