crashbox

Well-Known Member

• Sep 21, 2013

• #1

Hopefully someone will be able to help. A friend has a Freelander 1 and changed the battery. It now turns over but wont start and there is a clicking noise from the ECU. Its a 2litre diesel. Any ideas? It started fine before changing the battery.

 

crashbox

Well-Known Member

• Sep 21, 2013

• #2

Further, when he changed the battery he turned the ignition key and the heater plugs light illuminated but now it doesn't light up.

 

J

JRNORWAY

Active Member

• Sep 21, 2013

• #3

Is it possible he shorted the ECU when unplugging the battery? An easy fix for some shorted ECU's is to connect a separate ground lead to the ECU.

Doesnt cost much to try at least.

 

crashbox

Well-Known Member

• Sep 21, 2013

• #4

JRNORWAY said:

Is it possible he shorted the ECU when unplugging the battery? An easy fix for some shorted ECU's is to connect a separate ground lead to the ECU.

Doesnt cost much to try at least.

Click to expand...

Thanks, will give it a try.

 

crashbox

Well-Known Member

• Sep 21, 2013

• #5

Just wondering if the immobiliser has activated and it may start if he locks/unlocks the door with the key?

 

J

JRNORWAY

Active Member

• Sep 21, 2013

• #6

Is it the L-series or TD4 pre 2003 or a later TD4?

Is there a red blinking light in the dash?

 

crashbox

Well-Known Member

• Sep 21, 2013

• #7

1999 no red flashing light in the dash. L series.

 

B

Brack

Well-Known Member

• Sep 21, 2013

• #8

Just reading this last night
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/freelander-wont-start-after-re-fitting-alternator-178385-4.html
might be F6 fuse - worth a check

 

crashbox

Well-Known Member

• Sep 21, 2013

• #9

Brack said:

Just reading this last night
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/freelander-wont-start-after-re-fitting-alternator-178385-4.html
might be F6 fuse - worth a check

Click to expand...

Thanks, will let him know.

 

crashbox

Well-Known Member

• Sep 21, 2013

• #10

Fuses are all okay and its more of a buzzing noise from the ECU. He has removed the kill plunger switch on the pump and disconnected it and the noise goes away but still wont start.

 

crashbox

Well-Known Member

• Sep 27, 2013

• #11

Bump..... The old guy was on the dog n bone tonight again, he reckons the heater plugs are not working but they were okay before he swapped the battery.Any clues? I am going to have a butchers at it tomorrow.

 

englishbullterrier

Active Member

• Sep 27, 2013

• #12

Plugs not working won't stop it from starting though.....

 

crashbox

Well-Known Member

• Sep 28, 2013

• #13

I suspect the immobiliser is not cutting off but is there a way to check it?

 

B

Brack

Well-Known Member

• Sep 28, 2013

• #14

Dont think the starter would turn if immobilised.

Has he told you everything? did he create any sparks when changing the battery? has he been using jump leads prior to changing the battery, if so were they connected properly - pos to pos and neg to his engine bay bodywork.

Has he reversed polarity somehow

 

Last edited: Sep 28, 2013

crashbox

Well-Known Member

• Sep 28, 2013

• #15

I visited the old lad today. When the ignition is turned on, the heater plugs light does not illuminate, nor do the heater plugs work. The main relay, situated outside the ECU unit goes into overdrive and buzzes. This buzzing stops when a wire is fed from + battery terminal to the injector pump cut off valve.The engine turns over but does not fire up. L series Diesel.

 

crashbox

Well-Known Member

• Sep 28, 2013

• #16

:bump: Oh, its getting fuel to the pipes.

 

crashbox

Well-Known Member

• Sep 30, 2013

• #17

He has tested the black and white wire feeding from the relay to the inj pump strangler and there appears to be a broken wire.