Stumpy 1970 · Apr 7, 2012

I have a set of rear parabolics for my series 3 and a limited tool kit.
Hoping to fit them today but need guidance on the procedure.

I'm guessing I jack the rear up to take the weight. Undo the spring from the hanger and chassis the remove the u bolts holding the spring to the axle.
Reassembly is reverse?

Any guidance would be great. I have new ubolts so cutting them off isn't an issue.

ben waine · Apr 7, 2012

When I replaced my springs, I jacked up the rear cross member so the car was held up and then jacked the axle to get the wheels off for better access and then unbolt the u bolts then the springs from hangars( make sure axle is supported at this stage, makes it allot easier and safer) ( also I don't think it matters the order that you take the bolts off) and you may have to griind some of the nuts or head off to get them out then I stared to put th new ones on, I think the chassis end is easier to start then the other end, then the axle can be moved slightly into place ( also I think it's easier to take both springs off then put both new ones on, it means you get more play in the axle movement to get the springs to line up) then wheels back on, check everything's tight and off you go

oxides · Apr 7, 2012

ben waine said:
When I replaced my springs, I jacked up the rear cross member so the car was held up and then jacked the axle to get the wheels off for better access and then unbolt the u bolts then the springs from hangars( make sure axle is supported at this stage, makes it allot easier and safer) ( also I don't think it matters the order that you take the bolts off) and you may have to griind some of the nuts or head off to get them out then I stared to put th new ones on, I think the chassis end is easier to start then the other end, then the axle can be moved slightly into place ( also I think it's easier to take both springs off then put both new ones on, it means you get more play in the axle movement to get the springs to line up) then wheels back on, check everything's tight and off you go

I did mine one side at a time so you only have to support one corner of the chassis but this is definitely the way to go. 2 axle stands under the rear crossmember just in case and support the axle case with a trolley jack. Don't forget the shackles are threaded so don't go hammering the bolts out until the nut side shackle is off. If the chassis bush bolt won't come out you may have to cut it off, (hacksaw between bush and chassis) cut out the bush and replace it - add an extra day. U bolts can be cut off to save time, make sure you don't overstretch the flexible brake hose.

dominicbeesley · Apr 7, 2012

I'd say an extra day is optimistic! I'm still on with mine, 1.5 hours for rear N/S, still not got the bolts out of front O/S! Bought a bigger grinder now....

Stumpy 1970 · Apr 7, 2012

Looked at my Pathetic tool kit, lack o space and tools tht I would almost definitely need and booked it into my local 4x4 garage for Wednesday to have them done. They have all te tools, experience and the cost is negotiable compared to hours and hours laying on cold concrete struggling.
Thanks for the replies though. Much appreciated.

dominicbeesley · Apr 7, 2012

Wish I'd thought of that! Got spring off now...half way through attacking the bush! I might give in and limp up to the 4x4 garage to get the other two fitted...

oxides · Apr 7, 2012

First one I did took me ages - but if you accept you have to cut everything off, drill out the rubber from the bush before cutting it out and spend time aligning everything up properly before reassembly and just do it the hard way without faffing about it should take about 3 - 4 hours a spring. In a properly equipped garage with all the tools to hand (and a second pair of hands) it should be a lot quicker.

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