Been outside under the motor in this lovely weather. Hoping for a bit of advice. The suspension got stuck in access mode the other week. More or less certain there are no leaks (no wobbly drops, and stayed up even when left for a few days) and its not on the bump stops. Checked the compressor (which I replaced a couple of months back) and all looked good; even took it to bits to check the piston/seal, and it was making good air. After running the car for about 30 mins I get eas fault (soft fault) on the dash and flashing lights.
Ran the eas software and the only fault it gave me was incorrect signal from FL sensor.
So this morning I replaced the sensor - ran the software and no faults.
Ran the engine for 15 mins with tailgate open to fill the system.
Closed the tailgate and --- still stuck in access mode - arghhh!!
Thought I'd have another look at compressor, and as I unscrewed blue airline from pump was getting air coming out of blue pipe from valve block direction.
Any ideas?? Im guessing I've got a nr valve stuck open but thought this would have shown up on software - no faults showing.
Any help much appreciated.

NRV failed will not cause a fault code. Are you sure the compressor is making good air? Even if NRV1 is duff which it sounds like, with blue pipe in place air should be retained by exhaust valve in compressor and tank should still fill. Only when compressor stops will air leak back. With blue pipe in place air should be then escaping from exhaust port on valve block if NRV1 is duff. I explained how to check for that in a post yesterday.

Thanks for quick reply Wammers.
I'll do another pump test and see what I've got.
I'm assuming NRV1 is the valve at the back (near bulkhead) - would this be right?

kevwill said:

Thanks for quick reply Wammers.
I'll do another pump test and see what I've got.
I'm assuming NRV1 is the valve at the back (near bulkhead) - would this be right?

Click to expand...

No there are three NRVs all at front end of valve block at opposite end to where the blue pipe goes in. You will have to strip it to get at them. Valve at same end as blue pipe entry is diaphragm valve. This is closed by air pressure from below it when compressor runs to shut off exhaust port. This then allows air to pass via the drier and past NRV1 into tank connection pipe, Violet coded pipe on side of block. NRV 1 then retains pressure in tank. NRV2 prevents air from bags flowing into tank if tank is empty when valves open to raise car. NRV3 prevent high pressure air from flowing into exhaust side when compressor is running. O rings on NRVs are tiny and it will be obvious if they are damaged. Coned guide noses on NRVs tend to wear away getting a flat spot that fouls on aperture causing them not to seat correctly. May need blending out with a very fine file VERY carefully. Only fit black O rings to NRVs the red ones you get in some kits are very soft and deform and fail quite quickly i find, specially if the guide cones are worn. Red is fine everywhere else.

Thanks for that info. A valve block rebuild is in order I think; I'll order a kit of o rings & diaphragm. Was going to get them from symlisep38 but I notice his kits have the red o rings.
Pump is making good air (put another new seal & cylinder in) but still no rise from the car. Rather than drive myself completely nuts I'm gonna get a set of emergency valves; at least that way I can pump up each airbag. Then if a corner drops I know there's a leak that I've missed. Anyone used these before?? Thought they'd be a good thing to carry in the glove box for emergencies (after I've found and sorted the current problem).

kevwill said:

Thanks for that info. A valve block rebuild is in order I think; I'll order a kit of o rings & diaphragm. Was going to get them from symlisep38 but I notice his kits have the red o rings.
Pump is making good air (put another new seal & cylinder in) but still no rise from the car. Rather than drive myself completely nuts I'm gonna get a set of emergency valves; at least that way I can pump up each airbag. Then if a corner drops I know there's a leak that I've missed. Anyone used these before?? Thought they'd be a good thing to carry in the glove box for emergencies (after I've found and sorted the current problem).

Click to expand...

Not something i would fit but if you must. I suggest that if compressor is making good HP air as you say car should still rise with compressor running even if NRV1 is totally failed. As air should be held in tank by compressor exhaust valve until diaphragm valve opens as compressor stops. Have you done check on diaphragm valve as outlined in my "How to"? But if you are doing valve block overall you will be changing that anyway so all should be good. Black O Rings are on Ebay from another seller at much less cost but you will have to get diaphragm from him.

Hi Wammers. Am only going to fit the emergency valves as a temp way of checking for leaks (i.e. pull 4 feed pipes from valve block, fit valves, pump up, leave and see what happens). But yes, I cannot understand why the car won't rise with pump (unless I do have a major leak). Haven't done your diaphragm valve check yet; will see if I can have a look this afternoon or tomorrow morning. I did notice yesterday when I was checking compressor, that after it was switched off I had a louder than normal clicking noise from valve block (from the back I think); only for about 20 seconds, then stopped.
Will rebuild valve block with new o rings/diaphragm as you suggest.
If after that (and no leaks) and still no rise, it's got to be the pump hasn't it?
Just a thought, but can I disconnect pump from blue pipe and then fill system (thru blue pipe) with my workshop compressor?? I'm thinking that the car pump motor will switch off when the sysem has the right amount of air in it; or am I missing something?

kevwill said:

Hi Wammers. Am only going to fit the emergency valves as a temp way of checking for leaks (i.e. pull 4 feed pipes from valve block, fit valves, pump up, leave and see what happens). But yes, I cannot understand why the car won't rise with pump (unless I do have a major leak). Haven't done your diaphragm valve check yet; will see if I can have a look this afternoon or tomorrow morning. I did notice yesterday when I was checking compressor, that after it was switched off I had a louder than normal clicking noise from valve block (from the back I think); only for about 20 seconds, then stopped.
Will rebuild valve block with new o rings/diaphragm as you suggest.
If after that (and no leaks) and still no rise, it's got to be the pump hasn't it?
Just a thought, but can I disconnect pump from blue pipe and then fill system (thru blue pipe) with my workshop compressor?? I'm thinking that the car pump motor will switch off when the sysem has the right amount of air in it; or am I missing something?

Click to expand...

When the compressor stops there should be a gush of air from the exhaust port as the diaphragm opens to vent the gallery. Then if NRV1 is duff air should continue to escape. If you don't get a gush of air as compressor stops it is odds on stopping through overheat and not because tank is full. Check the diaphragm valve for leaking with compressor running before you do anything else, you may find that is duff and no air is going into tank.

Wise words. Will do that first. Many thanks.

A much belated update. Intended to rebuild the eas valve block back in February but in the meantime got a set of schrader valves. Disconnected the block, fitted the valves and manually (well with a tyre inflator) pumped up each corner to standard ride height (470mm). Worked a treat.
Was very busy with work for the next few months so had been driving the rangey with valves fitted. Didn't lose any air just had to put up with all the bleeping at start up and the permanent eas fault message on dashboard.
With a holiday drive to Devon coming up though I'd better get round to rebuilding the block. Went on flea bay to get some o rings & diaphragm and noticed someone selling a whole valve block with driver pack for £39 incl delivery. Sold as tested, but I though even if it leaks I'll just rebuild it and have a spare to sell.
Popped the new/used block in the other week, connected it all up, recalibrated, crossed me fingers (very important with a rangey) and as if by magic I've got all singing dancing raising lowering air suspension. Forgot how good it was.
Rebuilding my old block and will be keeping those lovely little schrader valves in the glovebox. If you havn't got any - get some.:car: