Yes - I have searched the threads.
No - I couldn't find an answer.
No - I don't need help with wiring/relays.

What I did do was replace the totally knackered "hang down" driving lights fitted by one of the many previous owners of my 90 - to the front A-bar with these WIPAC things. And swapped out all the wiring/switching/relay (there wasn't one!).

Possibly a bad move in the first place as they were cheapy things but...

Problem has been they're simply not watertight and suffer condensation. Situation isn't helped by the wiring exit grommet - which is both relatively poor-fitting and in the hang-down position, facing upwards, making water ingress/capillary action down the cable sheaths easier.

I've removed/dried refitted and attempted to silicone-seal a couple of times but for whatever reason, it's not bodge-able. Certainly not short of glue-welding the units together, never to be serviced again.

I looked for alternatives online. PIAA look more like quality items but the schematic again shows what would be an upward facing wiring grommet when hung-down - which I'm guessing may suffer the same problem.

Anyone know of something properly made that won't suffer instant fogging?

I'm sure there are lots of people with megawatt installations across multiple roof-bars that might recommend specific brands. Lovely - but really want to find a specific item if anyone has one themselves.

Have you thought of perhaps drilling a small hole in the casing at the lowest point to allow water to drain off and a small amount of air to circulate?
It might/might not work but if you're thinking of junking the lights in any case perhaps it's worth a go?

PIAA XT80's not had any problems with fogging or rusty bowls. Cable enters from the side/underneath and the grommit it fitted quite tight.

We do plenty of river crossings with them to.

I paid £110 for the pair when they were marketed as Land Rover Driving lights with 'Land Rover' on the covers. This was when PIAA took over the Aux lighting contract in (IIRC) 2009. 80XT's now run for over £250/pair

have a look around google for them, you may still be able to pick them up.

G

Thanks Boomer.
Good pragmatism.
I was only thinking about less holes to stop water getting in.
Didn't occur to me that more holes to let water out and air circulate might help.
Might give it a go short term but wonder if that might risk replicating the "old-car-steamed-window" problem when damp autumn/winter days turn quickly to cold frosty nights?

Griffdowg - had a quick look around and on the PIAA site. Can't see any options for "hang-down" installations. Have you got these on an A-Bar as per my fittings?

THAT took some searching!

BA 2761 – Land Rover Driving Lamp

and here: http://www.green-lanes.co.uk/electrical/lighting/spot-lights/ba2761.html

http://protec-parts.co.uk/shop/arti...jarri3Rp0AwQEApkjG&shop_param=cid=75&aid=663&

Probably the only place still reasonably priced, Everywhere else they are £360 for 'Genuine LR'!

These have Bearmach part numbers.

G

Missed that.

They are on my ARB bumper but bolted upright from the lower mounts.

G

GrahamW said:

Thanks Boomer.
Good pragmatism.
I was only thinking about less holes to stop water getting in.
Didn't occur to me that more holes to let water out and air circulate might help.
Might give it a go short term but wonder if that might risk replicating the "old-car-steamed-window" problem when damp autumn/winter days turn quickly to cold frosty nights?

Click to expand...

nope,. as when you turn them on they have a built-in heating wire (about 55W per bulb). Coincidentally, it glows, too!

I think boomer and philvy are spot on.

The lights aren't completely sealed for under water use, so moisture will get in and leave again along with the general amount of moisture in the atmosphere. Thats when its not raining. Trouble is, that at the moment, you're creating a water trap for when a large quantity of water comes in when it rains. Without a drain hole at the bottom, it would take ages of dry conditions for this to evaporate through the wire hole.

So a small hole at the bottom would drain the excess quickly, back to atmospheric levels inside. And turning the lights on will quickly evaporate the rest (whilst they're on).

philvy - yes, I too had hoped the integral air-warming unit might have acted as a dual-de-mister but although the unit's not sealed, there simply isn't enough circulation from the cracks around the bulb-holder to let out any humid air that does get warmed up. Had to get the missus' jump-jet power 2kW hair dryer on the job last time for 5 minutes to clear the mist.

Griffdowg - thanks. Looks like the next best. For your installation, if flipped the other way, where on a clock-face would the wires exit the grommet?

GrahamW said:

philvy - yes, I too had hoped the integral air-warming unit might have acted as a dual-de-mister but although the unit's not sealed, there simply isn't enough circulation from the cracks around the bulb-holder to let out any humid air that does get warmed up. Had to get the missus' jump-jet power 2kW hair dryer on the job last time for 5 minutes to clear the mist.

Griffdowg - thanks. Looks like the next best. For your installation, if flipped the other way, where on a clock-face would the wires exit the grommet?

Click to expand...

then make a second hole somewhere where water doesnt "run" in, but can evaporate (quite high up!). or connect it to the vac pump of your engine like the japs do (bad idea with our vac pumps as they feed the oil sump!)