the_wolf

Well-Known Member
Does anyone know the correct settings for doing the tracking properly? Toe in or out settings and where the drop arm should be pointing. I know that with the wheels in the straight ahead position the drop arm should be slightly to the offside but are there any marks to show the correct position? I think on earlier steering boxes there was a notch on the drop arm that lined up with the steering box you could lock in the straight ahead position using a pin or drill bit but mine certainly doesn't have that. I've also read that the drag link should ideally be the same length as the panhard rod and perpendicular to the axle.

96 plate 300tdi 110
 
Here's mine from a while ago ...

Any help ?

20250721_110419.jpg
 
I'll also need to find out how I can correctly determine that the drop arm and steering box is in the dead centre straight ahead position. Steering wheel isn't anything to go by unfortunately
Disconnect the drag link from the pitman arm. Turn wheel fully one direction and put a tape mark on the top of the wheel. Turn back in the other direction using the tape mark and counting turns to work out the full range of motion. Turn it back to half that range and you should be on the straingt ahead position.
 
I think on earlier steering boxes there was a notch on the drop arm that lined up with the steering box you could lock in the straight ahead position using a pin or drill bit but mine certainly doesn't have that.
Are you sure you don't have this. It is just a cast slot on the back of the arm, the new ones for sale still have it (image below from an ebay ad for a new one). This allows you to put a correctly sized drill bit (do not ask me what size) into the hole in the steering box to "lock" it central. Will try and get a pic of the hole on the box later as I currently have a 4 bolt steering box sat in the work bench.

1753100008824.png
 
Are you sure you don't have this. It is just a cast slot on the back of the arm, the new ones for sale still have it (image below from an ebay ad for a new one). This allows you to put a correctly sized drill bit (do not ask me what size) into the hole in the steering box to "lock" it central. Will try and get a pic of the hole on the box later as I currently have a 4 bolt steering box sat in the work bench.

View attachment 345962
That's what mine is like.
 
Looks great but haven't a clue what this means 🤭
Is it from a specialist in such things?

Yes it is.
They have a jig with lasers and a set of mirrors that they clamp to the wheel rims, they adjust the wheels (where possible) and after getting it as close as possible, print out the results.

I need to get this done again on my 90 as i've changed a few things, have different suspension and castor corrected swivels etc etc...

Costs about £50 round here.
I had my Toyota Hilux done a few months back and it made a big difference.

KwikFit do it but the nearest to you is Inverness ....
 
Last edited:
That's what mine is like.
If that is what yours is like then you should be able to lock the arm centred using that. below are some pics of the drop arm an box that I have out of the vehicle to illustrate how it work, from the pics it looks to be threaded so could use a bolt:

IMG_2436.jpeg


IMG_2437.jpeg


IMG_2439.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I don't need to. Mine is fine, it's the_wolf that wants to know how.
That’s what I get for not paying enough attention to the people posting!

Got an occasional death wobble to resolve, a pull to the left and some new G90 boots to get sorted! Tis all mounting up!
If you don’t mind me asking what made you chose g90’s? I did t think they had a very good rep and thought they were crossly rather than radial?
Sounds like you have panels bushes, a drivers side brake and some swivel pins to look at!
 
Thanks all. I managed to find this (see attached) which gives a good idea of somewhere to start and the correct drop arm position. It's kinda for their heavy duty conversion kit but is applicable to standard set ups. Unfortunately I don't have the notch on the back of mine as it was normally only on earlier ones so I'm surprised you can still buy the drop arms with it on
What I still can't determine though is what the correct toe setting should be as it's not too common for a vehicle to be set to 0 toe.
 

Attachments

  • Drop-Arm-conversion-fitting-advice(1).pdf
    217.3 KB · Views: 2
Looking at that it is odd that your rear wheels are out of toe by the same amount but surely the front wheels can't then be aligned to 0 toe using the rear wheels as a guide
One rear wheel is negative toe and the other is positive toe which suggest the rear axle is very slightly out if whack.
That's how I read it anyway.
 
Thanks all. I managed to find this (see attached) which gives a good idea of somewhere to start and the correct drop arm position. It's kinda for their heavy duty conversion kit but is applicable to standard set ups. Unfortunately I don't have the notch on the back of mine as it was normally only on earlier ones so I'm surprised you can still buy the drop arms with it on
What I still can't determine though is what the correct toe setting should be as it's not too common for a vehicle to be set to 0 toe.
My original TD5 drop arm had a notch in it and also the replacement has the notch in it.
 
That’s what I get for not paying enough attention to the people posting!


If you don’t mind me asking what made you chose g90’s? I did t think they had a very good rep and thought they were crossly rather than radial?
Sounds like you have panels bushes, a drivers side brake and some swivel pins to look at!

It's ex-military, original tyres on wolf rims...
1000000164.jpg


I've got a good g90 spare on the bonnet so thought I'd refresh the g90's and then rotate them to even the wear. Thinking about what you've said I'll price up a fresh set of 5 x Michelin XZL's

It's not pulling when braking, I think the setup is banjaxed somehow. Not seeing any collision damage so it's a puzzle.
 

Similar threads