steveb19 · Dec 24, 2009

My 1994 (soft dash) classic Range Rover has a baffling problem. It was banging on lock and behaving as though the brakes were on, so I had a new pair of CV joints fitted to the front drive shafts. The old ones were cracked and the teeth on the outside in a bad state. Thought we had sorted it,
but its still nearly as bad as before. If you have had full lock on or sometimes just in a straight line, she struggles to pull away. There is a ratchity type noise and a bad whine from the front and she feels like the brakes are hard on. Eventually it sorts itself out and drives normally for a while. The ABS and IC are always lit but have been like that for a long while.
Any ideas anyone?
Steve

classic kev · Dec 24, 2009

I assume the drive flanges are in good shape?

I also assume if the CV's were changed somebody has checked the splines on the shafts and that the diff is O.K. Apart from that I wouldn't know what else might cause the symptoms you describe unless the problem is further back like transfer box and noise is being transmitted down the propshaft (maybe?).

steveb19 · Dec 27, 2009

classic kev said:
I assume the drive flanges are in good shape?

I also assume if the CV's were changed somebody has checked the splines on the shafts and that the diff is O.K. Apart from that I wouldn't know what else might cause the symptoms you describe unless the problem is further back like transfer box and noise is being transmitted down the propshaft (maybe?).

Hi Kev
Well I found out a few nights back. It was dark and when I struggled home and got out I could see the right rear brake disc glowing orange!. Dont know whats causing it to lock on , could it be the ABS system? Not had a chance to strip it with the snow and ice but will get on it soon. Good chance the seals in the caliper will probably be knackered,
Steve

classic kev · Dec 28, 2009

steveb19 said:
Hi Kev
Well I found out a few nights back. It was dark and when I struggled home and got out I could see the right rear brake disc glowing orange!. Dont know whats causing it to lock on , could it be the ABS system? Not had a chance to strip it with the snow and ice but will get on it soon. Good chance the seals in the caliper will probably be knackered,
Steve

Sounds like you need to take the calliper off and give it a good clean. It may be the pistons are corroded causing it to stick. It might also be worth changing the brake fluid but a note of caution, bleeding the ABS is a long and frustrating job, you will need lots of brake fluid and a pressure bleeder, you MUST follow the workshop/Haynes bleeding procedure, there are no short cuts.

Datatek · Dec 28, 2009

steveb19 said:
My 1994 (soft dash) classic Range Rover has a baffling problem. It was banging on lock and behaving as though the brakes were on, so I had a new pair of CV joints fitted to the front drive shafts. The old ones were cracked and the teeth on the outside in a bad state. Thought we had sorted it,
but its still nearly as bad as before. If you have had full lock on or sometimes just in a straight line, she struggles to pull away. There is a ratchity type noise and a bad whine from the front and she feels like the brakes are hard on. Eventually it sorts itself out and drives normally for a while. The ABS and IC are always lit but have been like that for a long while.
Any ideas anyone?
Steve

The car is telling you what is wrong. If the ABS and TC lights are on you have a fault. TC if it's the same as the P38 uses the brakes to control traction, so the faulty ABS/TC is probably applying the brake because it thinks that wheel has lost traction

Could just be the sensor on that wheel is ferked

ssmn1234 · Dec 28, 2009

classic kev said:
Sounds like you need to take the calliper off and give it a good clean. It may be the pistons are corroded causing it to stick. It might also be worth changing the brake fluid but a note of caution, bleeding the ABS is a long and frustrating job, you will need lots of brake fluid and a pressure bleeder, you MUST follow the workshop/Haynes bleeding procedure, there are no short cuts.

And for whatever reason, DO NOT TAKE THE CALLIPER APART!! you'll be looking for another if you do.

classic kev · Dec 28, 2009

Datatek said:
The car is telling you what is wrong. If the ABS and TC lights are on you have a fault. TC if it's the same as the P38 uses the brakes to control traction, so the faulty ABS/TC is probably applying the brake because it thinks that wheel has lost traction

Could just be the sensor on that wheel is ferked

Makes sense. It might be worthwhile stripping down the problem rear hub, check the sensor ring isn't damaged, although it is unlikely. Also remove and clean the ABS sensor and refit witha new bush and a smear of silicon grease.

Have you got the blink code(s) off the ABS ECU; that should at least give you somewhere to start.

wreckhunter · Dec 28, 2009

Sounds like the rear wheel bearing could have collapsed,I was driving mine for a while thinking it was a binding brake but soon found out otherwise.This can put the abs light on as the pick up ring is on the hub.If you do happen to find on yours that it is a sticking caliper and decide to repair yourself then don't split the caliper in half,get 2 new pistons and an origanal equipment seal kit as i tryed a britpart kit on mine and had loads of greif trying to get the metal dust shield retainers to fit.

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