Hi All

I started with a complete restoration project on a 1975 SWB and after stripping down, found chassis to be beyond repair. Sourced a fairly complete (no engine and other bits) 109 with beautiful chassis. Friend convinced me to rather rebuild the 109 as opposed to chop the chassis down to 88.

I used the best parts of the two vehicles, kept Salisbury rear diff, complete gearbox and PROP SHAFTS of 109, renewed engine and gearbox mountings, used the 88 front diff, rebuild with new swivels, seals and the lot. Stuck my old 88 2.25 Petrol motor back as it bolted straight onto the donor gearbox and fitted 100% on chassis mountings.

Rear Prop shaft fitted, when I however attempted to fit the front prop shaft, I found it to be too SHORT. Distance between the diff flange and gearbox flange 630mm and shaft only measured 620mm in fully extended position.

I measured the nose of the original front diff as I thought that there may be a difference, but both were the exact same length. then I stripped the diff and leaf springs, thinking that the centre pins on leaf springs were off-set, but both distances from centre of mounting bush to centre of pins were exact same length. I re-fitted the lot, took the front wheels off and rested lower shock mounting plates on blocks either side too see if the weight of the engine and gearbox will depress the leaf springs and shorten the distance between flanges. this has happened, but if I bolt the drive shaft on, it will still be in fully extended position.

I have noticed that the position of the metal "stop blocks" on top of front axle, are not aligned with the position of the rubber stoppers bolted to the top of the front chassis rails. The distance from the top of the axle to the lower section of the top chassis leg measures 170mm.

I have checked, both leave springs as well as prop shafts, are from the original 109 vehicle, so in theory the lot should fit.

The only other explanation that I can think of is that without the rest of the body, firewall or bulkhead and trimmings, there is not enough weight to get the leave springs down low enough to reduce the distance between the gearbox and diff flanges, other than that, the damn chassis must have grown or the prop shaft shrunk!!!!

I have lost a lot of momentum due to this and trust that there must be a logical explanation and method to resolve the problem. Please, any help and information will be most welcome.

Regards

Rooikat

the 88" and 109" mesurement is from wheel to wheel, the rear end will al be mounted 21" further back

front of 88 and 109 are the same ,have you mixed props up

was the old prop off an 86"??????? probably not but thought I'd ask if only to remove the possibility??

Hi Guys

Discomark10, I realize that there will be a difference between axle centres between 88 and 109, but that is not my problem. Problem lies with front distance between gearbox flange and front diff flange.

Jamesmartin, I have checked that I have not mixed the props, so far as I can determine, same old prop is attempting to go back where it sat before I stripped the vehicle.

Redhand, no definately not off a 86!

What about my theory of insufficient weight on front leaf springs? Not so sure about that theory myself to be honest.

While online, I would like to post some pictures of my project, but have no idea how to, I had to, well, still busy, do quite a bit of restoration on the bulhead and would like to share some of the results as well as keep those interested in the project, in the loop. BUT FIRST, I need to get behind the prop shaft bit.

Regards

Rooikat

if engine and gear box are sat on chassis mounts and axle fastened to springs distance cant be wrong is axle secured correctly as it isnt aligned with bump stops

As far as I can work out yes, axle has been fitted correctly as the centre pin on the leaf springs sits securely in the female receiver on the bottom of the axle, both sides.

I fitted new bushes on leaf springs, used the same extensions at rear mountings, this is why I am totally in the dark as to why there appears to be a difference in distance. I do not want to go out and have prop shaft lengthened and then find that the chassis settles under own weight and the shaft turns out to be too long?

Rooikat

has new chassis been altered /repaired ,correct springs used ,bump stop not lining up is odd

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f38/picture-posting-dummies-47795.html

Isn't there some differences between 88's and 109 6 pot front ends??

iaanb said:

As far as I can work out yes, axle has been fitted correctly as the centre pin on the leaf springs sits securely in the female receiver on the bottom of the axle, both sides.

I fitted new bushes on leaf springs, used the same extensions at rear mountings, this is why I am totally in the dark as to why there appears to be a difference in distance. I do not want to go out and have prop shaft lengthened and then find that the chassis settles under own weight and the shaft turns out to be too long?

Rooikat

Click to expand...

Shaft should fit even with the axle hanging

are the springs symmetrical ? ie axle sits half way along or is there a difference front to axle so could they be fitted wrong way round

something is definately odd ,front prop is different for 6 pot but 4 pot and box fitted

Get your tape measure out - major chassis measurements are in the book

pdf Land Rover Manuals | Landroverweb.com

I seem to remember that 88 and 109 props are different. Don't 109's have a cut out in the cross member under the engine for the prop because the axle is lower relative to the gearbox hence the need for a longer prop. perhaps somebody fitted the wrong prop to the 109.

4 cylinder front props are the same for 88 or 109

I have checked the springs for length as well as possibly having them wrong way around, but both sides, front to back are exact same length, I have had tape measure out, distances are all correct. No sign of modification or alteration to chassis or mountings.

I am goint to take picture of side view of axle position in relation with top bump stop. Maybe or hopefully someone spots something that I have made a mess of. First need to study the uploading pictures for Dummies though.

are you sure the prop is at full extent on the travel spline and not just jammed where the grease nipple is

sometimes if youve replaced said grease nipple with a new one it can have a deeper thread on thus going into the driveshaft cavity against the splines and impeeding it from sliding out to its full potential

if so remove the grease nipple and try again

if you have removed/ seperated the driveshaft spline for any reason have you put it back in right ie with the one wider (milled out ) spline in allignment with the grease nipple hole as this will also foul the full travel on the spline

if you have regreased said driveshaft spline nipple while its off the vehicle was the position of the spline full in or out when you filled it if it was full in youve got a load of grease compressed in one end thats stopping it from coming all the way out

at true full extent the shaft should end up 2" longer than the space between the tranny box flange and the diff flange

hope this helps

are you using extended shackles at all?? because ive heard of problems with props fitting with longer shackles, as the diff nose is much lower because your only dropping the rear of the spring the front stays in the same place, if that makes any sence at all?

Was the "new" 109 chassis originally for a six cylinder???

could just get one of these?...

DA6339 Land Rover Discovery Prop Shaft Spacer Kit 15mm | eBay