Caberfeidh

Caberfeidh

New Member
Oil seal changed to rear diff on a 2006 TD5 Defender 90 on Monday with no particular dramas. There is no longer a leak and the oil was changed at the same time..

However after yesterday driving around 65 miles without incident I took her out for a quick spin tonight and after just pulling into the garage after 2 miles a grinding noise could be heard.

I changed the gearbox oil on Tuesday but it is not the gearbox as I pushed it in neutral and sound could still be heard. It is coming from the rear diff but only when moving forward. Moving in reverse it is quiet.

Conveniently is happened around 100 yards from the garage I bought it from and it is still within the 3 month warranty.

I foresee some pushback when they see the new propshaft bolts and expect them to disown the problem.

Has anyone any idea what the problem is? Could it have been something I did when I changed the seal.
 
- Disconnected propshaft
- removed flangeplate - used 24" stillson to hold while using breaker bar then ratchet to remove nut
- prised out seal carefully and pulled out using pliers
- tapped in new seal
- put back flangeplate
- reattached prop
- replaced lost EP 90 (it had only just being changed)
 
That sounds like an excellent idea Harry and I considered that. I may well as I fear I have overtightened the flange bolt.

I understood that on the Rover diffs the preload on the bearing was governed by shims. On the Salisbury axle there are collapsible spacers which make the torque setting more important.

At the end of the day I believe the diff had been leaking for a while. Also it looks like it has had some work done on it as there is loads of excess sealant on the diff itself as though it has been dismantled and reassembled.
 
Caberfeidh said:
That sounds like an excellent idea Harry and I considered that. I may well as I fear I have overtightened the flange bolt.

I understood that on the Rover diffs the preload on the bearing was governed by shims. On the Salisbury axle there are collapsible spacers which make the torque setting more important.

At the end of the day I believe the diff had been leaking for a while. Also it looks like it has had some work done on it as there is loads of excess sealant on the diff itself as though it has been dismantled and reassembled.
Click to expand...

you cant over tighten flange nut/bolt on a rover diff for the reason you give ,salisbury is as you say a crushable spacer, is mud shield catching
 
That's a relief. What the hell is it then.....

Bearing in mind the hammer the diffs must get on a daily basis I cannot imagine there is much else I could have done to cause this. Maybe it was on its way and I helped it along. I was pretty gentle all told since this is the first time I have done this particular job.
 
ive known people forget to put the spacer back or pull the bearing out with the shim stuck to it and then refit without shim,and put to long bolts so they push shield against diff nose,but it could just be coincedence
 
No shim came out with the oil seal. I have just raked through the bin and found the old seal. I actually used it to tap the new seal in the last couple of mm when I did the job.

Also the washer and bolt went back on the flange plate just as they came off.

Old propshaft bolts back on and back to the garage I think.
 
Some progress.

Very early this morning I went back to where it was abandoned and took it for a drive. No noise to start with and then it started again. Checked out the prop and low and behold the UJ at the diff on the rear prop had movement in one direction.

Prop bolts changed back to the originals and I am now waiting for the garage to open so I can present them with one clattery Landrover under warranty.
 
UJs replaced and also rear wheel bearings. I am phoning the garage in the morning to see if that has done the trick.

All work is being done under warranty.
 
Wheel bearings changed and a noticeable improvement in drivetrain noise. It seems to coast better too or perhaps that is my imagination.

They must have been bloody knackered.
 
Nice one and some interesting information as I have to change my diff seals.

Waiting till engine is in though to put some weight on it.

Or will the nut come off with a windy gun ??
 
Depends if it's been done up properly! The one I just did came off with half a grunt on a ratchet. Never failed to get one off with a breaker bar, so a decent rattle gun shouldn't struggle.
 
jackmac said:
Depends if it's been done up properly! The one I just did came off with half a grunt on a ratchet. Never failed to get one off with a breaker bar, so a decent rattle gun shouldn't struggle.
Click to expand...

Thanks, got a three quarter drive two handed windy gun if needed and a BIG compressor so will spin the axle if its seized;):)
 
THEengineer said:
how was the worn uj there fault?
Click to expand...

It was only bought 2 months ago and it is on a three month warranty. Perhaps you could say it's their responsibility rather than their fault. I'm rather nervous that I had bought a lemon.

So far I've fixed the windscreen wiper motor, replaced bulbs in the dash, changed all the oils (interim service has supposedly been undertaken), fixed a leaky rear diff seal. Swivel housings were 3/4 empty, the rear window on the cab had to have new felt before it sent me demented and the headlight mount on the drivers side was corroded to nothing. It has a 110 sender unit in the tank so it's empty when the gauge is at 1/4.

On the bright side the chassis is solid and engine seems solid and it is in overall good nick. I do quite enjoy fettling things.
 
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