Anders Wilhelm
New Member
I am a new owner of a 2012 year model 90 SW. Mint condition why thought it could be worth while to give her an anti-rust under body treatment. Anyone who has experience from this, tips, considerations, etc?
honolulujoe
Well-Known Member
good pressure wash, coat any bare metal bits with a rust converter like fertan www.fertan.co.uk, its a german product so there may be a Swedish distributor, you could also do the inside of the chassis with it.
then coat in black dinitrol or something like that. there was a thread on the different types of waxes and which fared best in tests, might have been in the series section
then coat in black dinitrol or something like that. there was a thread on the different types of waxes and which fared best in tests, might have been in the series section
When you buy your Dinitrol get something to apply it in to cavities with. You can buy several cans which come with extension pipes with multi-direction spray nozzles on the end, they work well. As well as the chassis inside and out,including the outriggers, other places to focus on:
Up inside the door pillars, all the way up and around the corner at the top and along under the windscreen
Seat box ends from under the vehicle.
Where the chassis outriggers bolt to the tub. (seat belt mounting points through to chassis)
Where the door post support brackets (Just under the seat belt reals) bolt through the tub.
Around the fuel filler pipe tunnel.
Rear wheel arches, low down towards the rear of the vehicle.
Under the rear wheel arches where the steel plates bolt through to the seat belt fixing tubes inside. (CSW)
Through the floor joists which the rear floor sits on and is riveted to.
Inside the door frames.
Everywhere underneath needs treatment really, but places where steel fixes to or touches the aluminium are far more important. How often you treat it depends on how you are using the vehicle.
I've probably missed other important bits, but some one will add to this list, I'm sure
Up inside the door pillars, all the way up and around the corner at the top and along under the windscreen
Seat box ends from under the vehicle.
Where the chassis outriggers bolt to the tub. (seat belt mounting points through to chassis)
Where the door post support brackets (Just under the seat belt reals) bolt through the tub.
Around the fuel filler pipe tunnel.
Rear wheel arches, low down towards the rear of the vehicle.
Under the rear wheel arches where the steel plates bolt through to the seat belt fixing tubes inside. (CSW)
Through the floor joists which the rear floor sits on and is riveted to.
Inside the door frames.
Everywhere underneath needs treatment really, but places where steel fixes to or touches the aluminium are far more important. How often you treat it depends on how you are using the vehicle.
I've probably missed other important bits, but some one will add to this list, I'm sure
Anders Wilhelm
New Member
Thanks for all these good tips and advise - great to be part of this forum! Anyone else is welcome if anything to add. Thanks again!
honolulujoe
Well-Known Member
you can buy the dinitrol in schutz containers and sealey do disposable schutz heads - and long tubes for inside the chassis - so you can spray direct from the container - using a compressor of course - and lob the head when you finished so nothing to clean out.
the dinitrol schutz containers spray easily in most weathers
the dinitrol schutz containers spray easily in most weathers
chris7
Well-Known Member
Welcome! But it s a good idea to introduce yourself first, then post on the Defender forum regards. Chris
blue beasty
Leaks an prone to bits dropping off
West Slope Rover
Well-Known Member
It's all funny tonight.
Start yo own thread. Don't hijack someone elses
West Slope Rover
Well-Known Member
Go easy on the dog. Look how cute it is and it can type.
