Advise needed?

I'm not electrical? I'm nuts and bolts!

I have a nuts and bolts problem with my ABS Modulator! One of the banjo bolts has damaged the thread on the modulator

Which means I will have to purchase another modulator! That's not the problem, changing the two is also not the problem ( (nuts and bolts!) even the brake lines

But! I'm assuming it's not as easy as 'Plug and Play'??

As the D2 'can be' an electrical nightmare, as we have seen on this forum

Will it need reprogramming??

Or is it as easy as Plug and Play??


Kev

Badger688 said:

Advise needed?

I'm not electrical? I'm nuts and bolts!

I have a nuts and bolts problem with my ABS Modulator! One of the banjo bolts has damaged the thread on the modulator

Which means I will have to purchase another modulator! That's not the problem, changing the two is also not the problem ( (nuts and bolts!) even the brake lines

But! I'm assuming it's not as easy as 'Plug and Play'??

As the D2 'can be' an electrical nightmare, as we have seen on this forum

Will it need reprogramming??

Or is it as easy as Plug and Play??


Kev

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It’s plug and play mate, to bleed it you can just undo the banjo’s to modulator and pump the brake pedal to get fluid out then tighten them up and bleed the rest of the brakes as normal then job done.

Or if you got a nanocom then use that for it all.

Also to add, you probably know this but for anybody else reading, disconnect the battery first before pulling the ABS plugs.

Battery is always the first off, even though It resets the mileage

Thank you @Luke2025

Kev

Luke2025 said:

It’s plug and play mate, to bleed it you can just undo the banjo’s to modulator and pump the brake pedal to get fluid out then tighten them up and bleed the rest of the brakes as normal then job done.

Click to expand...

Only the pedal braking will work this way but without power bleeding the modulator once it was empty of fluid will affect the correct function of all the active braking modes(ABS, TC, EBD, HDC) cos air will be trapped between the OV's circuits, pump, shuttle valves and the expansion chambers cos these will not be presurised by the pedal that's a fact, classical pedal bleed works only for the IV's part shown with red and blue in the pic(consider both sides similar) all the other uncoloured lines are presuriesed only by the return pump. So you can replace the modulator and pedal bleed it(in the correct sequence as in the book) and you can drive it relying on the brake pedal untill you find somebody to power bleed it but dont expect the ABS/TC/etc to work well this way.

sierrafery said:

Only the pedal braking will work this way but without power bleeding the modulator once it was empty of fluid will affect the correct function of all the active braking modes(ABS, TC, EBD, HDC) cos air will be trapped between the OV's circuits, pump, shuttle valves and the expansion chambers cos these will not be presurised by the pedal that's a fact, classical pedal bleed works only for the IV's part shown with red and blue in the pic(consider both sides similar) all the other uncoloured lines are presuriesed only by the return pump. So you can replace the modulator and pedal bleed it(in the correct sequence as in the book) and you can drive it relying on the brake pedal untill you find somebody to power bleed it but dont expect the ABS/TC/etc to work well this way.

View attachment 345281

Click to expand...

Damn it, I completely forgot about that sierrafery… @Badger688 you will need to do at least 1 power bleed with a nanocom as I was half correct on my response, apologies!