[sierrafery]

I am nowhere near being an expert but from what I have read on here you need to check the readings from the cps when starting.

+1^^^ and a fuel pressure gauge connected to watch the pressure while cranking cos on defenders i've seen many cases when this kind of stubborn starting issue is fuel supply related hence no fault codes albeit a nanocom or haweye is compulsory to rule out a quite common topside switch failure in the ECU which is not recognised by other generic scantools and the symptom is similar

 

[stumpyj]

Thank you for your replies - Ive looked through the videos and to be honest I havent considered a fuse being part of the issue.

I plugged in my pscan this afternoon and ive attached the readings - I just crank her over and then took the readings (Ive ordered a nanocom - i figured its about time I did!)

Whilst landy is my wife's daily driver (she is retired and its for the dogs etc), we have another car so Im trying my best not to overthink this. That being said this issue is taking all of my braincells.

 

[stumpyj]

 

[sierrafery]

I'm not sure that the scanner you used is reliable but if it is i see that the fuel pump drive is off so you can't expect it to start that way, the pump should be on for about 3 minutes after the ignition was turned on then if the ECU doesnt get a rpm signal it turns it off

 

[stumpyj]

I'm not sure that the scanner you used is reliable but if it is i see that the fuel pump drive is off so you can't expect it to start that way, the pump should be on for about 3 minutes after the ignition was turned on then if the ECU doesnt get a rpm signal it turns it off

Thanks for the reply, I think the scanner is pretty rubbish - I have ordered a nanocom so I should get it late this week - Ive just had the garage on the phone and there is no power getting to the injectors - they are checking the relay and then then all of the wires in the loom.

Thanks for your patience

 

[stumpyj]

I have just got my new nanocom - still learning how to use it.

Here are the error codes;

injector 1 open load circuit detected - and then the same for the other 4 injectors.

I then used the test function;

Fuel Pump - push test button and it made a noise like it was working
Injectors - went through each one and there was a "click" when i pushed the test button for each injector.

I then went into "get security status" and it said " The ECU is immobilised"

I dont understand if this means literally it is immobilised - I say this because 5 years ago I was told that the ECU was sent away and it had the immobiliser removed. Ive never used the blip thing ever (I do have it).

I dont know if this means the ECU is now toast or that I should sent it away to be tested.

Any ideas greatly appreciated

PS love the Nanocom

Cheers

Stumpy

 

[stumpyj]

I have just got my new nanocom - still learning how to use it.

Here are the error codes;

injector 1 open load circuit detected - and then the same for the other 4 injectors.

I then used the test function;

Fuel Pump - push test button and it made a noise like it was working
Injectors - went through each one and there was a "click" when i pushed the test button for each injector.

I then went into "get security status" and it said " The ECU is immobilised"

I dont understand if this means literally it is immobilised - I say this because 5 years ago I was told that the ECU was sent away and it had the immobiliser removed. Ive never used the blip thing ever (I do have it).

I dont know if this means the ECU is now toast or that I should sent it away to be tested.

Any ideas greatly appreciated

PS love the Nanocom

Cheers

Stumpy

Also ECU status is "non Robust" - this makes sense because this was deactivated 5 years when I had an intermittent fault with the AS10.

There is power to the injectors now.

I have the rocker cover off and when I was turning it over (just a second or 2) one of the lads noticed diesel leaking slightly out of 3 of the injectors (the ones compressed). All of the o rings and copper washers on the injectors have been changed and all of the injectors firmly clicked into position. He seems to think that if there is the slightest of leaks then there wouldnt be enough pressure to start the engine - any thoughts?

My mate has asked if there is a seal or o ring on what he describes as the push rod on the injector that goes down when it compresses the cylinder. Also when the ignition was switched on one of the lads commented that the injectors all clicked up. Not sure what that means.

Apologies for the scattered brained stuff - just trying to get to the bottom of this.

 

[Anaconda]

If you can see diesel then the seal must be leaking or the head is cracked surely. I don't think that would stop it from starting though.

 

[stumpyj]

If you can see diesel then the seal must be leaking or the head is cracked surely. I don't think that would stop it from starting though.

Cheers for the reply.

Ive just been down and cleared all the codes have all stayed off (they must have come on when the injectors were removed).

I turned her over again and all of the cylinders were showing readings like (1,2,3,4,5) -2,-1,-4,-3,4 and -9,-3,16,8,-5 - obviously they kept changing. At least the ecu is speaking to the injectors I suppose.

Funny thing is she was running absolutely sweet as a nut until the starter needed changing, then she started to be reluctant to start.

There is diesel in the oil but we think that was from the original leaky number 5 injector prior to changing the seals

 

[Anaconda]

Clean all the oil around the injectors, run the purge cycle and carefully watch for any diesel leaks around the injectors. In my limited experience leaking injectors doesn't stop it from starting a bad crank sensor or interference from a bad starter motor will stop it from starting.
Do some live data with the Nanacom when cranking and give @sierrafery a shout.

 

[stumpyj]

Clean all the oil around the injectors, run the purge cycle and carefully watch for any diesel leaks around the injectors. In my limited experience leaking injectors doesn't stop it from starting a bad crank sensor or interference from a bad starter motor will stop it from starting.
Do some live data with the Nanacom when cranking and give @sierrafery a shout.

Will do mate - I replaced the crank sensor last week - Ill figure out how to do some live data stuff then ill do what u suggested

Cheers mate

 

[Anaconda]

I hope you get some joy soon, it is a bit soul destroying at times.

 

[stumpyj]

Ok so heres the update, after trying everything I knew (including buying a nanocom!) I admitted defeaat and Landy was taken to a local specialist in Perthshire that has a great reputation and has also done some work for me.

4 weeks later and still the issue hasnt been resolved and the mechanic is stumped. The only thing left is the injectors.Things checked by them;

Crank position sensor
Working ECU swapped to check that this is the fault - no start
Wiring from ECU to engine
Fuel pressure regulator
Injector seals and washers
all fuel lines
Quick start sprayed into the engine and engine runs, wont run with diesel
Fuel pump producing enough pressure.

Hes going to try some injectors that they have next week.

The bit I dont get is that the engine was running (and has done for 5 years) as sweet as a nut, with 85k miles. At the MOT it did fail on emmissions but then retested after a hot run and passed. I did put reddex into the fuel as suggested by the mot tester - perhaps this has magnified the issue.

Symptoms were that she started to take a couple of turns to start but would start. Would start 3 times straight away then4th time not start. Leave for 10 minutes then start right up. Then after a few days just wouldnt start.

No fault codes on the nanocom.

Any suggestions welcomed! Shes been off the road for about 3 months now.

 

[freelance]

**** for fuel
Starter drawing too many amps
Battery failing

Back to basics, does it keep running when the ether stops being sprayed?

 

[stumpyj]

It cranks like normal and starts straight away as soon as I spray but stops as soon as the spray stops.
Its baffling.

I defo think its the injectors so might have to bite the bullet and buy a set.

The last time i looked at them 3 were weeping diesel from the top of them

 

[LG199714]

for a noisy fuel pump which i had, i just used a quality fuel additive every fill up for a month and it slowly went away. Now I hear it as a normal pump pressurizing but that's because there is no sound deadening. Fuel pumps need maintenance too. Even though it is a job, fairly easy for a defender but you should clean your fuel pump as it will get gummed up and most likely the cause of a lot of failures unless there was an issue on the line. I would clean the pump, bleed with the tank on the ground, start the truck again and if it fails go for a new one.

 

[Anaconda]

for a noisy fuel pump which i had, i just used a quality fuel additive every fill up for a month and it slowly went away. Now I hear it as a normal pump pressurizing but that's because there is no sound deadening. Fuel pumps need maintenance too. Even though it is a job, fairly easy for a defender but you should clean your fuel pump as it will get gummed up and most likely the cause of a lot of failures unless there was an issue on the line. I would clean the pump, bleed with the tank on the ground, start the truck again and if it fails go for a new one.

It's had three new fuel pumps, would be unlucky to need a fourth.

 

[stumpyj]

Thanks for the replies - the garage said that there was plenty of fuel pressure coming through

 

[LG199714]

If you have the aftermarket one still in, I would just go for OEM. Buy cheap, buy twice. just checked LR parts and a Hella (OEM) pump is 20 pounds more than what you paid for the aftermarket version. With your best interest in mind, any part regarding your fuel system, engine, engine cooling, electrical should be OEM. You can play around with aftermarket stuff with stuff such as interior trim, exterior trim, brackets etc. but for everything else that will get you from A to B should be quality and quality pays for itself. Again, with your best interest in mind.

 

[LG199714]

So my local garage has replaced the injector seals and copper washers on all of the injectors. When the looked at them they said that they noticed diesel leaking from injector number 5 so there was definitely an issue there. I think I have mentioned before that the garage owner is a good friend and he lets me work on landy using his ramps etc most Saturdays whilst he is cleaning the workshop ready for the coming week.

Today I put on the new loom and adjusted the injector rocker arm clearance as per the instructions (cam to the top and then screw in the screw and then back off one turn and tighten the nut). Tried to start but nothing. We even tried to tow it and start it that way but nothing.

Basically we are all out of ideas, as we have changed the crank position sensor, injector seals and copper washers and the injector loom.

I dont have a nanocom but will probably have to rent one from ebay for £40. Am I missing something silly? - my mate id a top mechanic and he is stumped! His Delphi diagnostic system obviously doesnt work on the TD5.

Any help REALLY APPRECIATED!!!

Cheers

Stumpy

Curious to know about your injector 5. I am having weird startup noises the disappear after a couple of seconds. Aside from your starting issues. Were there any noises or obvious symptoms prior to the non-starting issue that seemed like an injector issue?

thinking at this point of pulling the glowplug and do a quick borescope check of the injector see if there is pooling in the bowl.