[Mr S1]

Morning chaps

Took the Defender out this morning and all well to start with, on a dual carriageway and go to change gear and the clutch pedal feels very soft, and then won't go into third. Went back into second with a bit of coercing and then nursed it home.

I'm thinking clutch cable ? Clutch itself if only 2k miles old and every mile of that has been under normal driving conditions and no towing at all. The pedal is very soft /, soggy feeling - it's not swinging in the air like some clutch pedals do when a cable snaps.

Any ideas ?

 

[Oldseadog]

What year , engine and model is your Landy?
I have to admit that I haven't seen a cable operated clutch on anything for many a year, as most, if not all would nowadays be hydraulically operated!

 

[Mr S1]

'92 200TDi - sorry, that would have helped !

I'm not particularly technically minded....assumed it would be cable operated ? Could the cold we're having have affected if it's hydraulic then ?

 

[Mr S1]

Should also add it had a slave cylinder change when the clutch was changed / 'box rebuilt as well

 

[Oldseadog]

If the temperature was in the -40's possibly, but it sounds like you might have some air in the system.
Do you have any clutch if you pump the pedal a few times?
Have you checked the fluid level in the little screw-top tin reservoir which is moiunted to the right of the brake cylinder bracket whichis to the right of the steering column?
The top can be a bit tight to get off, but come of it must, and the fluid should be up to the mark inside.

 

[gstuart]

Should also add it had a slave cylinder change when the clutch was changed / 'box rebuilt as well

trying to remember if urs has the pedal box rod adjusting rod ??

 

[zeaphod]

You have a hydraulic clutch, which is not normally affected by UK temperatures. There's a small reservoir on the bulkhead in the engine bay, that's the first place to check. Let us know what you find.

 

[Mr S1]

If the temperature was in the -40's possibly, but it sounds like you might have some air in the system.
Do you have any clutch if you pump the pedal a few times?
Have you checked the fluid level in the little screw-top tin reservoir which is moiunted to the right of the brake cylinder bracket whichis to the right of the steering column?
The top can be a bit tight to get off, but come of it must, and the fluid should be up to the mark inside.

Pumping pedal makes no difference - reservoir full and fluid clean.

 

[jamesmartin]

Should also add it had a slave cylinder change when the clutch was changed / 'box rebuilt as well

is the fluid blackish in reservoir ,if so seals in master cylinder are breaking down,does fluid drop a little if clutch pedal is pumped gently,if not you need to bleed system or a new master

 

[Mr S1]

Fluid clean James - dipped my finger in to check that and looks new as assume all changed when clutch done. I'll try and see if the level drops when pedal pushed.....oh to ask the wife to watch the level, lucky me....prepare for a barrage about 'that bloody Land Rover'....

 

[Mr S1]

When pushing pedal fluid level didn't go up and down (so I'm told)....

 

[jamesmartin]

When pushing pedal fluid level didn't go up and down (so I'm told)....

its either full of air in which case where from ie master or slave or pipe work, or master cylinder needs replacement, level should rise and fall a little if fluids been pumped ,you can also get the same situation after fitting a new master and then the answer is to remove the outlet pipe and place finger over the master outlet and use finger as a one way valve ie ensuring its sealed when pedals rising, you repeat till fluid flows then fit the pipe back and bleed then at the slave as normal

 

[Mr S1]

Cheers James - given the cylinder is only about £15 is it worth replacing for good practice ?

One for me and @gstuart....

 

[jamesmartin]

Cheers James - given the cylinder is only about £15 is it worn replacing for good practice ?

One for me and @gstuart....

yes though to be sure if it bleeds up ok unbolt slave and carefully pull it away whilst having a finger on slave push rod to ensure it doesnt come away from the release arm and check slave behind rubber boot for wetness ie leak

 

[gstuart]

Cheers James - given the cylinder is only about £15 is it worn replacing for good practice ?

One for me and @gstuart....

no worries and always happy to help , long time since i done a master cyl change

@jamesmartin will correct me if i’m wrong

if u remove the 6 x screws that are on top of the clutch pedal box to expose the adjustment rod , u can normally see if any brake fluid has leaked inside

know u said ur slave cyl is new so that should also be ok

 

[jamesmartin]

no worries and always happy to help , long time since i done a master cyl change

@jamesmartin will correct me if i’m wrong

if u remove the 6 x screws that are on top of the clutch pedal box to expose the adjustment rod , u can normally see if any brake fluid has leaked inside

know u said ur slave cyl is new so that should also be ok

you will often see it on the pedal, you remove the 6 bolts and complete pedal box when changing the master cylinder

 

[gstuart]

you will often see it on the pedal, you remove the 6 bolts and complete pedal box when changing the master cylinder

many thks james , done a few master cyls on my series 3 a while back, but looks very similar

trying to remember , on the slave if u remove that and it does come off the release arm it’s simple enough to get back on isnt it , shouldn’t have to touch it , just a long time since i worked on my series

do u recommend genuine parts for the master cyl or are pattern parts ok,

thks again

 

[jamesmartin]

many thks james , done a few master cyls on my series 3 a while back, but looks very similar

trying to remember , on the slave if u remove that and it does come off the release arm it’s simple enough to get back on isnt it , shouldn’t have to touch it , just a long time since i worked on my series

do u recommend genuine parts for the master cyl or are pattern parts ok,

thks again

its the same master cylinder as your series
if rod comes away you can refit rod without its locating clip using your fingers to hold the rod whilst at the same pushing slave home snipe nose pliers or finger are enough to hold rod whilst removing

 

[gstuart]

its the same master cylinder as your series
if rod comes away you can refit rod without its locating clip using your fingers to hold the rod whilst at the same pushing slave home snipe nose pliers or finger are enough to hold rod whilst removing

many thks, shouldn’t have to touch that anyway

 

[Mr S1]

@jamesmartin @gstuart - just checked the cover and seal. Underside and inside bone dry, seal in good shape also.