Freelander 2 (LR2) Would Faulty Throttle Body Cause EML to Illuminate?

I know I need to take it to a garage to get the code(s) read, but as this has just happened today (Sunday) I thought I would ask for any experience here.

I have known for the past week that the electronic throttle body is probably faulty on my FL2. It makes the mechanical sound when the ignition is on and the car judders for a second or 2 when I hit the button to stop the engine.
Car seems to have been driving OK for the last week, but today if felt a bit different (couldnt tell you in what way, but just a bit different) though I did see excess smoke coming from the exhaust when accelerating. Not lots, but more than previous.

After stopping the car and restarting it later, the EML came on.

The EML hasnt been on for the last week despite me noting that the ETB was playing up.

Can a faulty ETB cause the EML light to come on? Could I have caused additional problems by using the car with a faulty EML? Is this likely another problem altogether and nothing to do with the ETB?

Thanks for your thoughts.

It could be that the throttle butterfly is sticking partially closed, which will upset the PTM.

Thanks Nodge.

I have just reserved a Pierburg Throttle Body from Euro Car Parts. I'm not overly mechanically minded but have watched a few videos on youtube and will give fitting it a go tonight.

I'm guessing there is no coding or anything to do after? And will the EML go out on its own, or will I need it reset?

Thx

No coding is needed. The MIL might go out, but it might need the code removing first. Do you know the current MIL event code?

If you are using Eurocarparts, then also check for the same part on Carparts4less. This is the same company, with often cheaper prices, but a more limited range of parts. The only thing is that they are delivery only, whereas you can pick up in person at ECP.

Nodge - sorry, dont know what MIL is?

Paul99- thanks for the thought. Always wanting to save a £ but my other car is off to the paint shop on Wednesday so I want to get this done today.

Despite having hands that are more like feet and not being overly mechanically minded, I have now fitted the new part. Appears to have solved the strange mechanical noise. The car shuts off smoothly and it feels like it drives better (maybe my imagination or wishful thinking?).

On another note I am going to start a new thread with regards to my rear diff which doesn't look very well (unless they are supposed to be coated in oil?).

Also, when accelerating is there supposed to be a loud whooshing sound (presumably turbo based?) or is this something else i'm going to have to raid the piggy bank for? I have had turbo diesels before, but not this loud.

Thanks for the help.

MIL = Malfunction Indicator Light and CEL = Check Engine Light. The fault indicator lights in your instrument cluster.
Loud whooshing noise is possibly a hole in the air intake pipework, usually connected to the turbo and the intercooler.

Thx Paul,

I will check those hoses and see what I can find.

I guess I will need to take it to a garage to get the CEL cleared.

Not necessarily. My Toyota had certain faults that would set the light, but clear after five starts with normal operation. Other manufacturers will use a similar strategy for cleared faults. That said, the light could be for a different issue. At the very least, anyone working on their own car nowadays should get a cheap code reader to throw in the toolbox, even just one of the Bluetooth or WiFi OBD II dongles for an Adroid or Apple phone and a copy of the Torque app or similar. Less than £20 for a cheap standalone code reader, and I prefer the dongle to those for less than £10.

parxuk said:

I will check those hoses and see what I can find.

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There are 4 rubber hoses in the boost system that can split, not all are easy to see.

parxuk said:

I guess I will need to take it to a garage to get the CEL

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As suggested above. Get a Bluetooth OBD2 dongle, and an App for your phone. If you have an Android then use Torque, as it's the best App about for engine diagnostics.

If you are unfortunate enough to be sucked into the restrictive Apple ecosystem, then you'll need to get whatever App you can which will clear code, but from my experience, nothing matches Torque.

Reading some reviews of Torque, apparently it doesnt play well with the latest version of Android.

Are you guys having any trouble currently, or is it working fine?

Any particular Bluetooth OBD2, or are they all the same?

Thanks

parxuk said:

Reading some reviews of Torque, apparently it doesnt play well with the latest version of Android.

Click to expand...

My Note 9 running Android 10 with Samsung's One UI 2.1 overlay works just fine on Torque, I used it just last weekend, not an issue at all.

parxuk said:

Any particular Bluetooth OBD2, or are they all the same?

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Pretty much any ELM327 bluetooth dongle should work. I've a couple of cheap one's (about £7), both work just fine with Torque.

Thanks.

I have ordered a Torque Pro ELM 327 Android OBD Bluetooth Fault Scanner / Diagnostic Code Reader

Will see what it comes up with.

That should work fine. No bother with Torque on my Android 10 phone, either.

So through the miracle of Amazon Prime the OBD arrived this evening.

I have read and cleared the fault code, which was P0299.

From a quick Google it looks like this is more to do with the Turbo than the throttle body I replaced on Monday.

I mentioned the whooshing sound and presume its related.

I have tried to inspect all the pipes, but hey aren't in the most accessible places. I have attached a picture of one that may be the problem. It is attached to the bottom of the turbo. I tried as hard as I could to remove it, but it wouldnt budge. I cleaned it up, and tried to feel for any damage, but it seemed ok.

Any thoughts on how to remove the hose to inspect?

Are the turbos reliable on FL2s or could I have a problem on the unit itself?

parxuk said:

I have attached a picture of one that may be the problem. It is attached to the bottom of the turbo. I tried as hard as I could to remove it, but it wouldnt budge. I cleaned it up, and tried to feel for any damage, but it seemed ok.

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If it's not split, then it's ok. I changed mine while I was repairing my engine damage, as mine didn't look great.

The later replacements now seem to be made of orange silicone, presumably due to the exposed location.

parxuk said:

Any thoughts on how to remove the hose to inspect?

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Mine came off easily, once the hose clips were released.

parxuk said:

Are the turbos reliable on FL2s or could I have a problem on the unit itself?

Click to expand...

Yes they're pretty reliable.

OK thx Nodge.

It was terrible to drive to work this morning and seems to be getting worse. Now very juddery when accelerating and quite a lot of black smoke coming from the exhaust. Very loud whooshing sound now.

Booked in to a local garage tomorrow. Fingers crossed it's just a hose and nothing worse.

parxuk said:

OK thx Nodge.

It was terrible to drive to work this morning and seems to be getting worse. Now very juddery when accelerating and quite a lot of black smoke coming from the exhaust. Very loud whooshing sound now.

Booked in to a local garage tomorrow. Fingers crossed it's just a hose and nothing worse.

Click to expand...

Black smoke, whooshing sound and lack of power would suggest an air leak in the boost pipes. Black smoke and lack of power can be an EGR valve sticking open, but there's not a noise with that issue, so fingers crossed it's just a pipe.

Car went to local garage today. I got a call back within about 30 minutes. They have diagnosed it as a split in the intercooler itself.

It was near closing time so he could only check 2 supplier, but they think the intercooler is approx £150, then whatever labor will be to remove front bumper, swap intercooler and reinstall bumper.

Is the bumper removal and replace an easy job?